Rotary Engine Run In!

[NoDOHC]

Originally Posted by J9FD3s

agreed. i do keep an eye on the oil though, if its a new combo, and needs tuning, it can dilute the oil with gas real quick.

Really? How? Does the fuel leak past the oil control rings?

Originally Posted by RICE_RACING

IF it has all new rotor bearings and stationary gear bearings then it will require 1500km at least to bed these in properly.

Oil control rings take up to 5000km to bed in right.

All other seals when used on excellent used parts will bed into each other within 500km. IF your rotor housings are second hand and your apex seals are hard (stock or other harder types) then this will take 5000km or more to bed in properly before full power and least stress is achieved. New un warped or scored parts will bed in within the 1500km limit.

All other seals like side seals and new corner seals take about 1500km to fully bed in if it was made correctly and not cut at funny angles etc.

1500km is a general rule that covers most from hack 2nd hand parts whore builds to BNIB factory engines. Progressive loads and revs on Mineral oil (no synthetic) 3000rpm, 4500rpm, 5000rpm, 6500rpm, 8000rpm in 300km steps from 0 load to 2 psi to 10psi boost is sufficient across this running period. Plenty of "cycles" full cold to operating temp starts (50 minimum, 100 or more is best) also facilitate best running in procedures of bearings especially.

Stick by this and you wont go wrong.

If in doubt of hobo build, drop the oil after 100km drive then drop again after the 1500km. If its a build like I do then no need to drop oil on initial start up, but some cunts build them homo and fill engine with all kinds of shit and foreign crap so dump after even first warm up cycle 20 min running in shed is good insurance.

Hope this helps!

Awesome info! should be a sticky or something.

[RETed]

Originally Posted by NoDOHC

Really? How? Does the fuel leak past the oil control rings?

Amazing as it sounds, it really does happen...

There is so much fuel in the engine that it bypasses the metal oil control rings and the oil control o-rings.
Remember, Mazda designed the oil control ring system to keep oil out of the combustion chamber.
Oil is significantly more viscous than fuel.

I have a feeling the oil control rings are just "hydroplaning" over the gobs of fuel inside the engine in a disgustingly overly rich condition, which allows the fuel to eventually enter the oil supply.

I've drained oil pans where the "oil" flowed as thinly as water...
You can smell the gasoline mixed in with the oil too.


-Ted