![]() |
#166 |
Don Mega
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Utopia
Posts: 1,688
Rep Power: 18 ![]() |
Holly Anal Cavity BATMAN !
How did I miss this thread ![]() ![]()
__________________
www.riceracing.com.au Worlds best Apex Seals Coil on Plug Water Injection ECU Calibration |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#167 |
Rotary Fanatic
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Freedom Land
Posts: 316
Rep Power: 18 ![]() |
UPDATES!!!
![]()
__________________
This is going to tear |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#168 |
Rotary Fan in Training
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: NE Mesa, AZ
Posts: 46
Rep Power: 0 ![]() |
In keeping with the Spirit R interior, I got the Sake Bomb Spirit R footrest. It is pretty solid and the texture could rub calauses off the bottom of your feet.
![]() ![]() Thankfully going to SevenStock got Jesse motivated in working on the FD again. He made a promise to have the car completed by Feb of 2012. I don't think that will happen, but just having him in the garage is good enough for me at this point. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#169 | |
Rotary Fanatic
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 274
Rep Power: 17 ![]() |
Nice piece, I should be getting mine in the mail next week. Good to see your project back on track.
Quote:
|
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#170 |
Rotary Fanatic
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Edmonton, AB, Canada
Posts: 174
Rep Power: 0 ![]() |
This build is fantastic.
'nuff said, Keep up the solid work! P.S. Your carbon fiber will probably be the reason I have wet dreams tonight.
__________________
Live the DriFD3S or die trying. JDM True Story. the Vacuum line, to my MAP became detached while I was legally drifting. my engine would not rev past 2500, and idled from 300-650 and was stalling. Fortunately, I acquired a Zip-Tie. I fixed a catastrophic engine failure, With a Zip-Tie. JDM FTW. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#171 |
Rotary Fanatic
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Mesa, Arizona
Posts: 114
Rep Power: 17 ![]() |
Indeed, I am still working on this car when I get the spare time:
Rubber mounts for oil cooler: ![]() air gaps blocked for radiator: ![]() ![]() ![]() Rubber mounting for V-mount radiator: ![]() ![]() The stock FD fans are pretty good and not many after market fans seem to compare. However I did find one that moves more air, are IP68 all weather rated, and use a more modern electric motor design that should last a lot longer than the stock fan motors. Making an all aluminum fan shroud with only materials from Home Depot. Step 1, Frame: ![]() Step 2, sheet aluminum top: ![]() Finished shroud: This sucker fits really snug and tight since I had the benefit of building it perfectly for the radiator I have. ![]() ![]() I used more rubber weatherstripping to seal/cushion the fan shroud: ![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#172 |
Rotary Fanatic
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 288
Rep Power: 18 ![]() |
Very nice! What's the purpose of the angle iron that separates the fans and the short pieces on the outside edges of the fans? Do they have a high/low fan speed like to stockers and will they operate off of the stock fan relays?
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#173 | |
Rotary Fanatic
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Mesa, Arizona
Posts: 114
Rep Power: 17 ![]() |
Quote:
The sheet aluminum is very thin and won't support the fans weight. The angle pieces down the middle hold the nutserts for the fan mount point in the center. The other 3 of 4 mounts are around the perimeter in the aluminum tube frame. The short pieces in the corners are further reinforcement for the frame which I probably didn't need, but had extra material handy. I like using the "L" angle material since it is so much more stiff than regular aluminum straps for a given weight. The fans are not two speed, which simplifies the wiring enough to allow me to simply get rid of the fan relays and the old sagging ugly rubber fan relay mounting that doesn't seem to age well. I'm going to use a big simple single relay and some simple electronics with a radiator fin temperature probe to turn on the fans. I like the idea of switching the radiator fans based on a sensor more relevant to the radiator temperature rather than engine temperature. I can set the activation temperature to somewhere much lower than the coolant thermostat (and therefore at a lower temp than the engine wants to steady-state at) and still not have to worry about having the fans on 100% since the fan will be activated only when there is significant hot coolant flow through the radiator. This radiator is a 4-pass radiator so I should be able to play games with probe location to adjust hysteresis and whether I'm monitoring radiator inlet or outlet temperature easily too. |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#174 |
Rotary Fanatic
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Freedom Land
Posts: 316
Rep Power: 18 ![]() |
Very nice as always!
__________________
This is going to tear |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
Bookmarks |
|
|