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Show your rotary car build up. Show off your Rotary Car build! |
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#1 |
Mazda Lover
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Akron, Ohio
Posts: 319
Rep Power: 15 ![]() |
I could never hurt, and will take only 5 minutes to do.
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![]() 2004 Mazda6 V6 5-spd - still waiting on money for a motor 1991 Mazda RX7 NA 5-spd - my new DD with 145,000 miles |
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#2 |
IT'S ALIVE!
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Richmond, VA
Posts: 811
Rep Power: 16 ![]() |
Yeah, making the wire isn't difficult I just need to find a convenient way to connect it to the battery.
Despite heat indices over 110 degrees I've made some small progress. The loom for the coils is done. I just need to connect all the wires to the main engine harness. ![]() My custom K&N filters also came in so I tapped one for the IAT sensor and mocked them up. ![]() I put the IAT sensor in the rear filter because I figure that'll have hotter intake temperatures and therefore be the limiting factor. I really need to find a way to get cooler air to the filters. A TII hood should put air in the general area... |
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#3 |
Lifetime Rotorhead
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Elkton, MD
Posts: 874
Rep Power: 16 ![]() |
A T2 hood would make a great cold ram air intake to those filters. Looks like they are about the same size and similar placement as the stock T2 intercooler. Just fabricate up a box to enclose the filters that is open on the top side, with your choice of sheet metal or fiberglass, and stick a mating flange surface along the open top side that matches up to the rubber seal under the scoop area of the T2 hood. Tip - borrow a T2 IC to use as a template. To locate the box and keep it in the right placement with the hood closed, you can fabricate AL bracket(s) to rigidly mount the box to one or more of the unused threaded holes on the keg that were once used for the vacuum plumbing.
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#4 | |
IT'S ALIVE!
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Richmond, VA
Posts: 811
Rep Power: 16 ![]() |
Quote:
The main harness is completed. It still looks pretty ugly but as long as it keeps the wires dry/cool it'll do for now. All that's left are alternator power wires, the starter power cable, the spark plug wires, and trimming the transmission harness once the dummy engine's out. ![]() This area was a PITA: ![]() I put the alternator and spark plugs in to get an idea of how to route the spark plug wires: ![]() I'm thinking 90 degree boots at the coils then the wires run next to the fuse box, over the alternator, and down to the plugs with straight boots. This should keep them from the main harness and any wires it comes near will be crossed at 90 degree angles. |
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