Twin Charged FD - Fraternal Twins - Page 13

RX SE7EN · 05-03-2012, 09:52 PM

Haha, just be glad, now you can come over and help me get it to idle right. Then we can rip it apart and send stuff to powdercoat and redo the wiring haha.

***TitaniumTT*** · 05-03-2012, 10:05 PM

Wait.... didn't it JUST GET BACK TOGETHER!!!!!

Oyvindjs · 05-04-2012, 10:30 AM

grats on start! Will be fun to see some numbers on this build

Sharingan 19 · 05-05-2012, 04:15 PM

Awesome project! Way to see it through, now for that startup vid....

RX SE7EN · 05-08-2012, 09:35 AM

Started on the wiring. Moving all relay and fuse boxes to the rear bin. Also adding a fuse box and relay boxes for the ECU and auxiliary functions such as gauges, alarm, radar detector, etc...

Big piece of plastic (so I don't have to worry about using metal that could arc with any wires that get damaged (not that there should be any of those, but just in case).

Trace the design, and cut:

Mount boxes:

Mount inside the car, and make sure it clears the rear bins, so they can be reinstalled.

The dash is out of the car, and now I'm just running all the wires and connecting everything up. My driver side door lock actuator and Viper alarm system should be in this week. I'm also going to try to hook up an actuator to the trunk latch so I can use the auxiliary on the alarm remote to open it.

RX SE7EN · 05-11-2012, 12:31 PM

I just sold my yellow top battery to try to save some space now that my battery will be in a box in the hatch instead of in the bin.

I'm thinking about this one:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ODY-PC925MJT/

Is 380 cold cranking amps good enough for a street car?

There is a cheaper version available with the same specs, but this one has a metal casing on it and better resistance to vibration (supposedly)

Are there any other specs that I should pay attention to? I have a small amp and sub, but not any kind of crazy system or anything. My alternator has also been upgraded to 140amps by IRP.

infernosg · 05-11-2012, 03:11 PM

Argh, over $200 for a battery! You may want to look into the ETX..L batteries. I picked up a Deka ETX18L for less than $90. 340 advertised CCA, 18 lbs, and 6" x 3" x 8".

RICE RACING · 05-11-2012, 05:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RX SE7EN

I just sold my yellow top battery to try to save some space now that my battery will be in a box in the hatch instead of in the bin.

I'm thinking about this one:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ODY-PC925MJT/

Is 380 cold cranking amps good enough for a street car?

There is a cheaper version available with the same specs, but this one has a metal casing on it and better resistance to vibration (supposedly)

Are there any other specs that I should pay attention to? I have a small amp and sub, but not any kind of crazy system or anything. My alternator has also been upgraded to 140amps by IRP.

I have been using Ody PC535 for the last 8 years! on RICESP.

Much smaller, much lighter, much lower CCA, and it cranks it totally perfectly!

I recently bought a spare battery and shipped here from USA to my door it was like $150Au.

You can see the size of my battery in my car build up pics, it fits in my carbon battery tray along with 3 CDI units and integral holder. I love it, its the best battery I have ever used/owned.

I found out about it through a local rally champion who was using the same unit.

RX SE7EN · 05-28-2012, 09:03 AM

Haven't had too much time to spend on the car lately, but am making some progress on the wiring.

I've got the interior stripped, and the stock harnesses just about completely modified and reinstalled. Now I've just got to add in the alarm and wiring for the ECU.

New panel to hold the relay and fuse boxes in the rear bin:

Here you can see the new fuse box and relay boxes for the ECU and auxiliary components

Best wire stripper I've ever owned.

New crimper for weather/metri pack type connectors, here I'm crimping terminals for the wires that go to the relay boxes that will control outputs of the ecu (fuel pumps, coil +, injector +, supercharger, exhaust cutout, etc...)

RX SE7EN · 05-28-2012, 09:19 AM

Part of the reason why I decided to rewire the ECU: (not very tidy)

To tuck everything in the engine bay, I decided to put all relay and fuse boxes into the rear bin. To start, I took out the front body harness (the one that wraps from the driver side foot well, around the front of the car, and into the passenger side foot well).

Identify the plugs you don't need in the engine bay and snip the wires, then snip the same wire at it's other end to delete the wire completely. For example, I'm deleting the fan relays and using my ecu to control the fans, so I snipped every wire at the relay, then I went and snipped the other end of the wires at the relay and fuse boxes and another other plugs they went to.

Label each wire that you are keeping but relocating (all wires going to the relay box got an "R", all wires going to the Fuse box got an "F". There are other wires that go to the large Grey connectors next to the fuse box, I gave these all numbers.

The last few wires left just run from the driver side foot well to the passenger side foot well. I labeled these all with a number as well. After snipping these off, I ended up with a driver side harness and a passenger side harness. There are barely any wires left on the passenger side. and the ones that connect to the driver will now be connected inside the car, instead of wrapping all the way around the front end.

Stripped harness, being labeled and cut:

Everything cut except for the 6 remaining wires that just run from foot well to foot well:

You can see the bulk of the wires end up on the driver side:

Once it's in two pieces, put it back in the car and connect the remaining connectors to the fuse box by the clutch pedal and all of the other connectors down there. Once you know where all the connectors go, tape it all off so that the it all fits nicely and each wire goes where it's needed. Then remove and completely wrap it.

Driver side, wrapped up. Now the wires that run to the rear of the car for the relay and fuse boxes need to be extended and wrapped.

This is the hardest part, now I just need to run the new wires for the ECU and alarm system.

RX SE7EN · 07-22-2012, 10:11 PM

Finally got all of the wires into the bulkhead.

Here is the engine bay side, took a while to braid everything, everything has been left long, I won't trim it down and cover it until I have it in the engine bay.

Yes, that is an 8 wire braid, I surprised myself on that one haha.

Used almost every terminal available

Here is the side that will sit inside the car. This will connect to the TEC GT ecu, plx gauges, stock gauges and indicator lights, and a few other wires on the stock body harness.

Now i just need to put the strain reliefs on, the Raychem, and then the connectors.

Oh, and it's now wired for 8 injectors and 8 coils, just in case I ever save up for a 4 rotor haha.

Mitchocalypse · 07-23-2012, 12:46 AM

Nice job. clean wiring like that is so much easier to work with and looks hundreds of times better. Love the uniqueness of this build

knonfs · 07-23-2012, 01:01 PM

Looking good!

Is that the same tool used for the weatherpack connectors?

RX SE7EN · 07-23-2012, 07:42 PM

Yes, that's a GM/Weatherpack style crimper. That was used for the relay boxes, not the milspec bulkhead. The milspec pins are barrels that use a Deutsch style terminal. A special, expensive crimp tool is used for those (but I save $100 and got mine used on ebay for $70 and it works like a champ)

knonfs · 07-24-2012, 05:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RX SE7EN

Yes, that's a GM/Weatherpack style crimper. That was used for the relay boxes, not the milspec bulkhead. The milspec pins are barrels that use a Deutsch style terminal. A special, expensive crimp tool is used for those (but I save $100 and got mine used on ebay for $70 and it works like a champ)

SWEET! I have one of those relay boxes (not installed), plus I want to redo the wiring harness on the fc. Off to ebay in search for a weatherpack crimper.

05-03-2012, 10:05 PM	#182
*TitaniumTT* Test Whore - Admin Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Right Behind you son Posts: 4,581 Rep Power: 10	Wait.... didn't it JUST GET BACK TOGETHER!!!!! __________________ -The Angry Stig- DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!! 2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4 2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins 1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle 1988 'Vert - In progress 1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST! I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you? I'm pure Evil I'm still insane, in the best possible way. I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube. Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion. You win with your thread. Most everything It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff.... No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon. *-Angry Motherfcker Mode ENGAGED-**

05-11-2012, 03:11 PM	#187
infernosg IT'S ALIVE! Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Richmond, VA Posts: 811 Rep Power: 16	Argh, over $200 for a battery! You may want to look into the ETX..L batteries. I picked up a Deka ETX18L for less than $90. 340 advertised CCA, 18 lbs, and 6" x 3" x 8". __________________ '86 Mazda RX-7 Base '79 Mazda RX-7 GS

07-23-2012, 12:46 AM	#192
Mitchocalypse Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Edmonton, AB Posts: 179 Rep Power: 14	Nice job. clean wiring like that is so much easier to work with and looks hundreds of times better. Love the uniqueness of this build __________________

05-03-2012, 09:52 PM	#181
RX SE7EN Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2010 Posts: 183 Rep Power: 16	Haha, just be glad, now you can come over and help me get it to idle right. Then we can rip it apart and send stuff to powdercoat and redo the wiring haha.

05-04-2012, 10:30 AM	#183
Oyvindjs Rotary Fan in Training Join Date: Apr 2012 Posts: 78 Rep Power: 14	grats on start! Will be fun to see some numbers on this build

05-05-2012, 04:15 PM	#184
Sharingan 19 Rotary Fanatic Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 138 Rep Power: 16	Awesome project! Way to see it through, now for that startup vid....

05-08-2012, 09:35 AM	#185
RX SE7EN Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2010 Posts: 183 Rep Power: 16	Started on the wiring. Moving all relay and fuse boxes to the rear bin. Also adding a fuse box and relay boxes for the ECU and auxiliary functions such as gauges, alarm, radar detector, etc... Big piece of plastic (so I don't have to worry about using metal that could arc with any wires that get damaged (not that there should be any of those, but just in case). Trace the design, and cut: Mount boxes: Mount inside the car, and make sure it clears the rear bins, so they can be reinstalled. The dash is out of the car, and now I'm just running all the wires and connecting everything up. My driver side door lock actuator and Viper alarm system should be in this week. I'm also going to try to hook up an actuator to the trunk latch so I can use the auxiliary on the alarm remote to open it.

05-11-2012, 12:31 PM	#186
RX SE7EN Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2010 Posts: 183 Rep Power: 16	I just sold my yellow top battery to try to save some space now that my battery will be in a box in the hatch instead of in the bin. I'm thinking about this one: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ODY-PC925MJT/ Is 380 cold cranking amps good enough for a street car? There is a cheaper version available with the same specs, but this one has a metal casing on it and better resistance to vibration (supposedly) Are there any other specs that I should pay attention to? I have a small amp and sub, but not any kind of crazy system or anything. My alternator has also been upgraded to 140amps by IRP.

05-28-2012, 09:03 AM	#189
RX SE7EN Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2010 Posts: 183 Rep Power: 16	Haven't had too much time to spend on the car lately, but am making some progress on the wiring. I've got the interior stripped, and the stock harnesses just about completely modified and reinstalled. Now I've just got to add in the alarm and wiring for the ECU. New panel to hold the relay and fuse boxes in the rear bin: Here you can see the new fuse box and relay boxes for the ECU and auxiliary components Best wire stripper I've ever owned. New crimper for weather/metri pack type connectors, here I'm crimping terminals for the wires that go to the relay boxes that will control outputs of the ecu (fuel pumps, coil +, injector +, supercharger, exhaust cutout, etc...)

05-28-2012, 09:19 AM	#190
RX SE7EN Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2010 Posts: 183 Rep Power: 16	Part of the reason why I decided to rewire the ECU: (not very tidy) To tuck everything in the engine bay, I decided to put all relay and fuse boxes into the rear bin. To start, I took out the front body harness (the one that wraps from the driver side foot well, around the front of the car, and into the passenger side foot well). Identify the plugs you don't need in the engine bay and snip the wires, then snip the same wire at it's other end to delete the wire completely. For example, I'm deleting the fan relays and using my ecu to control the fans, so I snipped every wire at the relay, then I went and snipped the other end of the wires at the relay and fuse boxes and another other plugs they went to. Label each wire that you are keeping but relocating (all wires going to the relay box got an "R", all wires going to the Fuse box got an "F". There are other wires that go to the large Grey connectors next to the fuse box, I gave these all numbers. The last few wires left just run from the driver side foot well to the passenger side foot well. I labeled these all with a number as well. After snipping these off, I ended up with a driver side harness and a passenger side harness. There are barely any wires left on the passenger side. and the ones that connect to the driver will now be connected inside the car, instead of wrapping all the way around the front end. Stripped harness, being labeled and cut: Everything cut except for the 6 remaining wires that just run from foot well to foot well: You can see the bulk of the wires end up on the driver side: Once it's in two pieces, put it back in the car and connect the remaining connectors to the fuse box by the clutch pedal and all of the other connectors down there. Once you know where all the connectors go, tape it all off so that the it all fits nicely and each wire goes where it's needed. Then remove and completely wrap it. Driver side, wrapped up. Now the wires that run to the rear of the car for the relay and fuse boxes need to be extended and wrapped. This is the hardest part, now I just need to run the new wires for the ECU and alarm system.

07-22-2012, 10:11 PM	#191
RX SE7EN Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2010 Posts: 183 Rep Power: 16	Finally got all of the wires into the bulkhead. Here is the engine bay side, took a while to braid everything, everything has been left long, I won't trim it down and cover it until I have it in the engine bay. Yes, that is an 8 wire braid, I surprised myself on that one haha. Used almost every terminal available Here is the side that will sit inside the car. This will connect to the TEC GT ecu, plx gauges, stock gauges and indicator lights, and a few other wires on the stock body harness. Now i just need to put the strain reliefs on, the Raychem, and then the connectors. Oh, and it's now wired for 8 injectors and 8 coils, just in case I ever save up for a 4 rotor haha.

07-23-2012, 01:01 PM	#193
knonfs Rotary Fan in Training Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 86 Rep Power: 18	Looking good! Is that the same tool used for the weatherpack connectors?

07-23-2012, 07:42 PM	#194
RX SE7EN Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2010 Posts: 183 Rep Power: 16	Yes, that's a GM/Weatherpack style crimper. That was used for the relay boxes, not the milspec bulkhead. The milspec pins are barrels that use a Deutsch style terminal. A special, expensive crimp tool is used for those (but I save $100 and got mine used on ebay for $70 and it works like a champ)