Plain Jane OEM nothing to see here rebuild

JustJeff · 01-05-2013, 12:56 PM

Well I believe while prepping the engine for removal I found the cause of my boost problems.

It was very small when I started removing things, In the process of pulling the TMIC and getting the pic I made the tear much much worse. The $4 plumbing coupler served me well, but I suppose I should get the proper part.

I haven't decided whether to pull the tranny with the engine or just the engine. Pulling the engine only will make removal much easier as I will not have to drain the transmission, lower the exhaust, remove heat shielding to get to transmission mount and convertible transmission brace. Come to think of it, I won't have to take the clutch hose off either.

Ted something I forgot to mention in our PM. On the initial rebuild I had replaced the clutch with an ACT street clutch. Replaced the throwout and pilot bearings at that time.

Pete_89T2 · 01-07-2013, 07:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JustJeff

Well I believe while prepping the engine for removal I found the cause of my boost problems.

It was very small when I started removing things, In the process of pulling the TMIC and getting the pic I made the tear much much worse. The $4 plumbing coupler served me well, but I suppose I should get the proper part.

.

That will do it... For replacement silicone couplers & related parts, you might want to give these guys a try:

http://www.siliconeintakes.com/

Prices are very reasonable for silicone parts, and the parts I tried seem to be holding up rather well after a year of use on my daily driver. Haven't used any of their parts on the FC yet, but I purchased a couple of straight coupler pieces from them for my Protege5. The stock rubber/plastic intake pipe on that car has a bad habit of cracking over time, so rather than paying Mazda the crazy cost of another stock part, I fabbed up a replacement pipe with these couplers and some AL pipe.

Quote:

Originally Posted by JustJeff

I haven't decided whether to pull the tranny with the engine or just the engine. Pulling the engine only will make removal much easier as I will not have to drain the transmission, lower the exhaust, remove heat shielding to get to transmission mount and convertible transmission brace. Come to think of it, I won't have to take the clutch hose off either.

My $0.02 is on pulling just the engine. If you're pulling the tranny out with it, you'll also need a bit more clear workspace in front of where the car sits to manuever the hoist & engine/tranny unit out of the car without hitting anything along the way.