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Old 01-24-2013, 10:48 PM   #5
WE3RX7
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The neutral switch issue won't create the non-responsive pedal as the OP described.. it would still drive, accelerate, etc.

What have you recently worked on in the car prior to this symptom?

Here's some things to check, maybe something with jump out at you:

- Vacuum leakage
- Air suction at intake-air system (between MAF sensor and intake ports)
- Air cleaner restriction
- Air cleaner improper installation
- Improper operation of drive-by-wire control system (abnormal signals from APP sensor, TP sensor and load signal to PCM)
- SSV stuck open
- SSV solenoid valve malfunction (stuck open)
- APV stuck open
- APV position sensor malfunction
- Inadequate fuel pressure
- Pressure regulator (integrated in fuel pump unit) malfunction
- Fuel pump body mechanical malfunction
- Fuel line restriction or clogging
- Fuel leakage from fuel injector
- Fuel injector (FP1) (RP1) malfunction (leakage, clogging, improper injector amount)
- Restriction in exhaust system
- Purge solenoid valve malfunction (stuck open)
- Improper fuel injection control operation (abnormal signals from MAF, ECT and IAT sensors to PCM)
- Erratic signal from eccentric shaft position sensor
- Damaged or improper installed eccentric shaft position sensor pulse wheel
- Disconnected electrical connectors
- Improper load signal input
- Engine overheating
- Low engine compression


The last two (engine overheat and compression) are less likely, but its always good to check compression. I would start with anything in the intake system including the TB (did you recently fiddle with the intake box, tubing, MAF or TB), then the fuel system... the fuel pumps are known to be an issue on the early cars so it's worth checking the system on/around the fuel pump (pressure regulator, pump, etc). After that, I'd check the shaft position sensor (did you recently install a pulley, etc)? After that... run through everything else on this list...

Last edited by WE3RX7; 01-24-2013 at 10:59 PM.
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