FC steering rack rebuild

StephenSheppard · 02-28-2013, 12:52 AM

Back at the top of the pinion you should be looking at this.

Install the new top oil seal. I DON'T KNOW IF IT FITS BUT DON'T ACCIDENTALLY INSTALL THE DUST COVER AT THIS POINT! The dust cover does not have metal showing on the top side. Taht's the best description I can give you.

Snap ring is next.

Make sure the snap ring is seated and expanded like this.

Now install the new dust cover.

MOAR Grease!

Grease the rack support too. I mean why not?

I grease the spring just a little so it doesn't bind. Install that in the backside of the rack support.

Next install the yoke plug. you do have to push down a bit while attempting to thread it. Don't cross thread this or your rack and pinion will be trash. Just put it in like a couple turns for now.

See that down in there? Needs grease!

Don't be scared, load that sucker up! Remember you can slide the rack back and forth a couple times and get grease way down in there.

It's important to note that the rack and pinion is divided in three sections as far as lubricants go. The tube: Has powersteering fluid only in it. The aluminium part with the gears and the lower bearing has only grease in it. The aluminium part at the top between the lower and upper oil seals has power steering fluid in it. If there is power steering fluid in teh part where the grease goes then there is something wrong. That's why the two hardlines are external between teh tube and the upper pinion area. To keep power steering fluid where power steering fluid goes and grease where grease goes. Hopefully that will help make sense of this contraption.

I put a little loctite on the lock nut for the yoke plug.

The FSM says to tighten the yoke plug all the way down (14mm btw) and then back it off 25-35 degrees of rotation. Then install the locknut and be sure you hold the yoke plug still at the same time. There's a special tool but a big crescent wrench and a 14mmm wrench will do the job just fine. I actually used channel locks since I couldn't find my big cresent wrench. I know those two pieces on mine look super boot leg. Luckily they face up on FC racks so I can just order them from Mazda new and install them whenever.

SUPER IMPORTANT NOTE FOR DE-POWERING THE RACK GUYS!!!!

That adjustment right there directly effects your steering effort. you can't set it too loose or the rack will eat the housing up but you can loosen it up a little bit. I'm sorry i don't have an angle to give you to back it off to but just play with it on car a bit and see what you like. Basically you don't want to be able to wobble the rack in the housing much at all. If you really grease everything up good you can get away with a bit more than usual. I've done this in the past on Honda racks and had no issue whatsoever even after driving the car for 5+ years.

OK back to the power steering stuff.

StephenSheppard · 02-28-2013, 01:04 AM

Next i installed the new rack and pinion bushings.

Set the rack in place

Started all the hardware by hand before tightening and of the clamps down on the tube. Then snugged them up.

Here's Aeroquip's part number for the rack output if you want to make it into a -6AN jam like I needed.

That's what it looks like installed. in case it matters :/

Remember the four tiny O-rings in the kit? They go on the factory hardlines. Don't forget to lube them with a bit of power steering fluid.

What it looks like installed.

In my case I have a Small block chevy swap engine cradle, which makes installing the hardlines a challenge to say the least.

Those were fun to tighten lol

Here's my rack input hose thing I had made out of the end of the factory hose. i cut off the hose behind the crimp fitting and ordered a weld on steel -6AN fitting. Needs to be cleaned up still but you get the idea. That threads into the middle hole on the rack. The bottom hole on my unit is plugged (Forgot to get a pic of that). It's super simple I measured the depth of the hole, then cut a bolt at that hieght, just the threaded part and threw the top away. Then I cut a groove across it with a band saw so it can be driven with a screwdriver. Coated the threads in red loctite and screwed it in. Sits flush with the rack. Simple solution. I just use the input and output and ignore the "feedback" hole or whatever it is.

My build thread is in the BAD GUY section

http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_...ad.php?t=16630

THE END.

02-28-2013, 01:04 AM	#2
StephenSheppard Rotary Fan in Training Join Date: Nov 2012 Posts: 58 Rep Power: 13	Next i installed the new rack and pinion bushings. Set the rack in place Started all the hardware by hand before tightening and of the clamps down on the tube. Then snugged them up. Here's Aeroquip's part number for the rack output if you want to make it into a -6AN jam like I needed. That's what it looks like installed. in case it matters :/ Remember the four tiny O-rings in the kit? They go on the factory hardlines. Don't forget to lube them with a bit of power steering fluid. What it looks like installed. In my case I have a Small block chevy swap engine cradle, which makes installing the hardlines a challenge to say the least. Those were fun to tighten lol Here's my rack input hose thing I had made out of the end of the factory hose. i cut off the hose behind the crimp fitting and ordered a weld on steel -6AN fitting. Needs to be cleaned up still but you get the idea. That threads into the middle hole on the rack. The bottom hole on my unit is plugged (Forgot to get a pic of that). It's super simple I measured the depth of the hole, then cut a bolt at that hieght, just the threaded part and threw the top away. Then I cut a groove across it with a band saw so it can be driven with a screwdriver. Coated the threads in red loctite and screwed it in. Sits flush with the rack. Simple solution. I just use the input and output and ignore the "feedback" hole or whatever it is. My build thread is in the BAD GUY section http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_...ad.php?t=16630 THE END. Last edited by StephenSheppard; 02-28-2013 at 01:06 AM.

02-28-2013, 12:52 AM	#1
StephenSheppard Rotary Fan in Training Join Date: Nov 2012 Posts: 58 Rep Power: 13	Back at the top of the pinion you should be looking at this. Install the new top oil seal. I DON'T KNOW IF IT FITS BUT DON'T ACCIDENTALLY INSTALL THE DUST COVER AT THIS POINT! The dust cover does not have metal showing on the top side. Taht's the best description I can give you. Snap ring is next. Make sure the snap ring is seated and expanded like this. Now install the new dust cover. MOAR Grease! Grease the rack support too. I mean why not? I grease the spring just a little so it doesn't bind. Install that in the backside of the rack support. Next install the yoke plug. you do have to push down a bit while attempting to thread it. Don't cross thread this or your rack and pinion will be trash. Just put it in like a couple turns for now. See that down in there? Needs grease! Don't be scared, load that sucker up! Remember you can slide the rack back and forth a couple times and get grease way down in there. It's important to note that the rack and pinion is divided in three sections as far as lubricants go. The tube: Has powersteering fluid only in it. The aluminium part with the gears and the lower bearing has only grease in it. The aluminium part at the top between the lower and upper oil seals has power steering fluid in it. If there is power steering fluid in teh part where the grease goes then there is something wrong. That's why the two hardlines are external between teh tube and the upper pinion area. To keep power steering fluid where power steering fluid goes and grease where grease goes. Hopefully that will help make sense of this contraption. I put a little loctite on the lock nut for the yoke plug. The FSM says to tighten the yoke plug all the way down (14mm btw) and then back it off 25-35 degrees of rotation. Then install the locknut and be sure you hold the yoke plug still at the same time. There's a special tool but a big crescent wrench and a 14mmm wrench will do the job just fine. I actually used channel locks since I couldn't find my big cresent wrench. I know those two pieces on mine look super boot leg. Luckily they face up on FC racks so I can just order them from Mazda new and install them whenever. SUPER IMPORTANT NOTE FOR DE-POWERING THE RACK GUYS!!!! That adjustment right there directly effects your steering effort. you can't set it too loose or the rack will eat the housing up but you can loosen it up a little bit. I'm sorry i don't have an angle to give you to back it off to but just play with it on car a bit and see what you like. Basically you don't want to be able to wobble the rack in the housing much at all. If you really grease everything up good you can get away with a bit more than usual. I've done this in the past on Honda racks and had no issue whatsoever even after driving the car for 5+ years. OK back to the power steering stuff.