Great, another V8 FC drift car build thread :/

GySgtFrank · 03-06-2013, 05:28 PM

Coming along nicely. Peace of mind with the new lines will be nice.

StephenSheppard · 03-06-2013, 10:59 PM

Yep new stuff is always nice. I'm sure somethig will not get tightened the first go round and it'll leak on something lol.

I'm going to have to check every single nut and bolt on the car after assembly honestly. Some stuff I left hand tight on purpose, some stuff is tightend all the way.

So my some of my stuff arrived finally late in the day, got a bit more work done but then it started getting cold and I was hungry lol.

Installed the M10x1.0 to -3AN fittings in teh factory junction block.

Added the bulkhead just below the junction. This runs between the junction and eventually the output of the hydro ebrake.

That's where it is in the inside (Driver's storage bin area).

Finished up the left rear line.

Right rear line finished.

Installed the line clamps. I did reuse the factory plastic clamp in the right corner there, since it still worked fine. It also kept me from having to drill a hole through the first layer of trunk steel to find the inside of that little welded on bulkhead to get a nut on the backside. Also using a rivenut was out of the question do to space constraints. The tool can't fit in that awkward little corner.

Fits like factory, no biggie.

My new fuel filter. If it turns out to be inadequate in flow I'll just get a different one later. It's for fuel injection and supposedly flows fine for what i need. We shall see. It's only like $40 or something like that and has a replaceable element. Doesn't come with the -6AN fittings, you have to buy those seperately.

Had some 1-1/4" clamps left over from my wiring harness business, they fit pretty snug. You might even be able to get some 1-1/8" ones on if you wanted to try that hard.

Mounted her up near the factory location. Reused one factory hole and popped a rivenut in the frame for the other hole. Should be plenty of clearance there for the steering shaft and header.

More rivenuts to mount the surge tank and second fuel pump. A bit of time was consumed on making that little humble looking hard line between them. Took a couple trys to get it right. It is the absolute smallest shape possible for both my tubing bender and my flaring tools (Imperial brand BTW). Just enough tube to grab with the sleeves pulled back all the way to be able to flare the ends. Probably could have just used a 90 degree long AN coupler or something but after failing the first attempt I decided it was going to happen whether it liked it our not.

StephenSheppard · 03-11-2013, 11:37 PM

Got the fuel line parts in a while back and started in on that. Got it mostly finished up during a couple hours here and there after work and what not. Started in the engine bay close to the brake booster and mounted the bulkhead fitting brackets via rivenuts.

Here they are together

Withe the -6AN bulkheads threaded in hand tight for now while I'm building everything. I'll add lock washers later to keep them stationary.

Got this small section of the feed line finished up pretty quickly. On a side note everything above the bulkheads will be soft line to the fuel rails.

Started messing with my fuel pump housing and stripped it down, measured stuff to see if what I wanted was possible, and it is but just barely

I'm using a S4 housing since it's super easy to solder whatever gauge wire I like to the top of the pass throughs.

Next i cut the factory feed and return tubes off the housing.

Then drilled them out, to get a good starting point for what's next.

-6AN fitting for the feed out of the in tank pump. and a -6AN bulkhead "T" for teh two return hoses. Hopefully they will be able to share the same return tube. If this ends up causing an issue then I'll add a second tube and replace the "T" with a straight bulkhead. PTFE washers to help keep fuel inside. I'll probably cut a countersink on the top side of the housing in each hole so I can put a O-ring under each washer, which should keep vapor from escaping.

Just another angle. There is just enough room between the + terminal for the pump and the blue AN fitting for the feed. *wipes sweat from forehead

Here's what the bottom looks like at this point. As you can see the feed has a tiny issue. There's not a completely flat surface for the washer to seat against. This is the reason I'll be adding the O-rings.

A simple push-lok fitting and hose for the pump.

StephenSheppard · 03-11-2013, 11:56 PM

The fuel level sender can still fit but just barely, here's a few pics of it.

Made the return dump tube out of some left over stainless tube.

Bought my self some new FTP lenses and bumper lenses. They look amazing when they are new btw.

Found this cost effective solution to the "rebuilding front calipers dilemma" Autozone $44 each with a $55 core each. They look awesome. I figured they would come painted black like most remanufactured stuff, but they are bare aluminium like they shoudl be. Pretty stoked about this.

Beautiful

They have all brand new hardware and springs and all that junk for that price.

Packaged up my cores and took them to my local store even though I bought the calipers online. Returned them and got my $110 credited back no issues at all.

Here's the rear section of the feed line, mostly done at this point. I may trim the length a bit at the bulkhead as it's a bit too tight and fiddly still.

Looks like it's touching that washer but it's not. In fact its not touching anything really except the brackets.

Still needs the rest of the clamps under teh belly of the cra. For now I just put enough on so I could get the hard part out of the way, which of course is the intricate bends at the rear of the car.

It's really hard to get a good picture of this area because the car is so close to the ground.

Here's the return line now.

This little piece of the feed line from the second pump to the bulkhead was a bit challenging. Took a couple tries to get it right. Here's some pics of it from different angles. It's completely suspended. at first I was going to use soft line but then I realized there was no point since the line goes from something mounted on the chassis to something mounted on the chassis.

StephenSheppard · 03-12-2013, 12:25 AM

Also bought a couple things for the engine. A new oil pan and gasket set. Damn SBC stuff is retarded cheap. if I remember correctly this oil pan is like $35 lol

Bought this for maximum laziness lol. Some people say they drain slowly. If it's junk then no matter since the new oil pan came with a proper plug as well anyways.

Other stuff I already have but haven't taken pics of is a Brand new starter, a new alternator, a freeze plug kit for when I rebuild it, a mechanical fuel pump block off plate thing. And some otehr stuff I can't remember, just little stuff for now. I don't have anywhere to put anything big at this time besides in my house lol.

I order this little heater for the car from Summit as well. My buddy had one in his old Ford Falcon and then when he got rid of the car he put it in his Cressida drift car. It worked plenty good in the winter in both those cars, so I'm guessing the interior volume of a FC chassis should be fine with this size as well. they make a bigger one that costs a bit more. This one is like $144?? soemthing like that. Getting tired of freezing my ass off in the winter time. This is a blower and heater core all in one package.

The inlet and outlet are 5/8" the covers are on in the picture so it looks wierd.

As you can tell it's quite small. Works perfectly fine though. I think it's 12,000BTUs. i don't know check the summit site. Three speed fan.

Here's the front side, you can use flexible tubing to get the heat wherever you want. i'll probably just let it pour out under the dash everywhere and call it good.

Comes with powdercoated brackets, a small wiring harness, and a rotary syle switch. Pretty basic stuff.

03-06-2013, 05:28 PM	#1
GySgtFrank Professional Stick Poker Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Stafford, Ks. Posts: 1,008 Rep Power: 16	Coming along nicely. Peace of mind with the new lines will be nice. __________________ 1988 N/A SE 2+2, dead stock and staying that way. 1979 SA22C stock? Not so much. http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...ad.php?t=15585

03-06-2013, 10:59 PM	#2
StephenSheppard Rotary Fan in Training Join Date: Nov 2012 Posts: 58 Rep Power: 13	Yep new stuff is always nice. I'm sure somethig will not get tightened the first go round and it'll leak on something lol. I'm going to have to check every single nut and bolt on the car after assembly honestly. Some stuff I left hand tight on purpose, some stuff is tightend all the way. So my some of my stuff arrived finally late in the day, got a bit more work done but then it started getting cold and I was hungry lol. Installed the M10x1.0 to -3AN fittings in teh factory junction block. Added the bulkhead just below the junction. This runs between the junction and eventually the output of the hydro ebrake. That's where it is in the inside (Driver's storage bin area). Finished up the left rear line. Right rear line finished. Installed the line clamps. I did reuse the factory plastic clamp in the right corner there, since it still worked fine. It also kept me from having to drill a hole through the first layer of trunk steel to find the inside of that little welded on bulkhead to get a nut on the backside. Also using a rivenut was out of the question do to space constraints. The tool can't fit in that awkward little corner. Fits like factory, no biggie. My new fuel filter. If it turns out to be inadequate in flow I'll just get a different one later. It's for fuel injection and supposedly flows fine for what i need. We shall see. It's only like $40 or something like that and has a replaceable element. Doesn't come with the -6AN fittings, you have to buy those seperately. Had some 1-1/4" clamps left over from my wiring harness business, they fit pretty snug. You might even be able to get some 1-1/8" ones on if you wanted to try that hard. Mounted her up near the factory location. Reused one factory hole and popped a rivenut in the frame for the other hole. Should be plenty of clearance there for the steering shaft and header. More rivenuts to mount the surge tank and second fuel pump. A bit of time was consumed on making that little humble looking hard line between them. Took a couple trys to get it right. It is the absolute smallest shape possible for both my tubing bender and my flaring tools (Imperial brand BTW). Just enough tube to grab with the sleeves pulled back all the way to be able to flare the ends. Probably could have just used a 90 degree long AN coupler or something but after failing the first attempt I decided it was going to happen whether it liked it our not.

03-11-2013, 11:37 PM	#3
StephenSheppard Rotary Fan in Training Join Date: Nov 2012 Posts: 58 Rep Power: 13	Got the fuel line parts in a while back and started in on that. Got it mostly finished up during a couple hours here and there after work and what not. Started in the engine bay close to the brake booster and mounted the bulkhead fitting brackets via rivenuts. Here they are together Withe the -6AN bulkheads threaded in hand tight for now while I'm building everything. I'll add lock washers later to keep them stationary. Got this small section of the feed line finished up pretty quickly. On a side note everything above the bulkheads will be soft line to the fuel rails. Started messing with my fuel pump housing and stripped it down, measured stuff to see if what I wanted was possible, and it is but just barely I'm using a S4 housing since it's super easy to solder whatever gauge wire I like to the top of the pass throughs. Next i cut the factory feed and return tubes off the housing. Then drilled them out, to get a good starting point for what's next. -6AN fitting for the feed out of the in tank pump. and a -6AN bulkhead "T" for teh two return hoses. Hopefully they will be able to share the same return tube. If this ends up causing an issue then I'll add a second tube and replace the "T" with a straight bulkhead. PTFE washers to help keep fuel inside. I'll probably cut a countersink on the top side of the housing in each hole so I can put a O-ring under each washer, which should keep vapor from escaping. Just another angle. There is just enough room between the + terminal for the pump and the blue AN fitting for the feed. *wipes sweat from forehead Here's what the bottom looks like at this point. As you can see the feed has a tiny issue. There's not a completely flat surface for the washer to seat against. This is the reason I'll be adding the O-rings. A simple push-lok fitting and hose for the pump.

03-11-2013, 11:56 PM	#4
StephenSheppard Rotary Fan in Training Join Date: Nov 2012 Posts: 58 Rep Power: 13	The fuel level sender can still fit but just barely, here's a few pics of it. Made the return dump tube out of some left over stainless tube. Bought my self some new FTP lenses and bumper lenses. They look amazing when they are new btw. Found this cost effective solution to the "rebuilding front calipers dilemma" Autozone $44 each with a $55 core each. They look awesome. I figured they would come painted black like most remanufactured stuff, but they are bare aluminium like they shoudl be. Pretty stoked about this. Beautiful They have all brand new hardware and springs and all that junk for that price. Packaged up my cores and took them to my local store even though I bought the calipers online. Returned them and got my $110 credited back no issues at all. Here's the rear section of the feed line, mostly done at this point. I may trim the length a bit at the bulkhead as it's a bit too tight and fiddly still. Looks like it's touching that washer but it's not. In fact its not touching anything really except the brackets. Still needs the rest of the clamps under teh belly of the cra. For now I just put enough on so I could get the hard part out of the way, which of course is the intricate bends at the rear of the car. It's really hard to get a good picture of this area because the car is so close to the ground. Here's the return line now. This little piece of the feed line from the second pump to the bulkhead was a bit challenging. Took a couple tries to get it right. Here's some pics of it from different angles. It's completely suspended. at first I was going to use soft line but then I realized there was no point since the line goes from something mounted on the chassis to something mounted on the chassis.

03-12-2013, 12:25 AM	#5
StephenSheppard Rotary Fan in Training Join Date: Nov 2012 Posts: 58 Rep Power: 13	Also bought a couple things for the engine. A new oil pan and gasket set. Damn SBC stuff is retarded cheap. if I remember correctly this oil pan is like $35 lol Bought this for maximum laziness lol. Some people say they drain slowly. If it's junk then no matter since the new oil pan came with a proper plug as well anyways. Other stuff I already have but haven't taken pics of is a Brand new starter, a new alternator, a freeze plug kit for when I rebuild it, a mechanical fuel pump block off plate thing. And some otehr stuff I can't remember, just little stuff for now. I don't have anywhere to put anything big at this time besides in my house lol. I order this little heater for the car from Summit as well. My buddy had one in his old Ford Falcon and then when he got rid of the car he put it in his Cressida drift car. It worked plenty good in the winter in both those cars, so I'm guessing the interior volume of a FC chassis should be fine with this size as well. they make a bigger one that costs a bit more. This one is like $144?? soemthing like that. Getting tired of freezing my ass off in the winter time. This is a blower and heater core all in one package. The inlet and outlet are 5/8" the covers are on in the picture so it looks wierd. As you can tell it's quite small. Works perfectly fine though. I think it's 12,000BTUs. i don't know check the summit site. Three speed fan. Here's the front side, you can use flexible tubing to get the heat wherever you want. i'll probably just let it pour out under the dash everywhere and call it good. Comes with powdercoated brackets, a small wiring harness, and a rotary syle switch. Pretty basic stuff.