Plain Jane OEM nothing to see here rebuild

[Rotary Evolution]

i would also recommend ditching that "engine destroyer" plastic water pump neck and install an aluminum one.

[JustJeff]

Originally Posted by Rotary Evolution

a MBC set at 0 doesn't vent anything, it actually allows all pressure to get to the wastegate, when raising boost with it it will vent slightly to lower the pressure opening the wastegate.

i would get a lower temp thermostat, check the water pump, blow any crap out of the radiator core and check for obstructions. if all else fails check to see if the cooling system is overpressurizing.

edit: apparently it didn't go to the last page so nevermind.

Excellent point on the MBC.

I believe I sorted out the cooling problem. I did not have my Taurus efan wired correctly. But I'm curious what temp thermostat you'd suggest. I have a 195 on thermoswitch for my efan. Moving my thermostat further away would save my thermostat and efan fighting each other.

Originally Posted by Rotary Evolution

i would also recommend ditching that "engine destroyer" plastic water pump neck and install an aluminum one.

I've never heard it called that. Other than a tendency for the plastic one to harden/crack/fail, what else should I know? For the record, I have a spare plastic one so I doubt I'd spring for the $100 aluminum one from Mazdatrix till I need it.

[Pete_89T2]

Originally Posted by JustJeff

I've never heard it called that. Other than a tendency for the plastic one to harden/crack/fail, what else should I know? For the record, I have a spare plastic one so I doubt I'd spring for the $100 aluminum one from Mazdatrix till I need it.

You've got it right. The plastic T-stat necks can crack if torqued down a little too tight, and being plastic they will tend to get brittle with age, and how they would react to various chemical products it may be exposed to over time is an unknown.

I haven't heard anyone complaining about these things failing in a catastrophic way, and plastic T-stat necks are used in just about every car out there today and have been for many years. When they do fail typically it's a hairline crack at the base area that results in a trickle leak (not a full dump of coolant). If it's not neglected, this kind of failure won't end up blowing your engine.

The AL replacement part is nice, but I'd save the money for something more important, especially being that you have a spare stock part handy.