Plain Jane OEM nothing to see here rebuild

[JustJeff]

Thanks for the feedback Ted,

Something very curious happened. I found my battery was nearly dead, and not enough to crank the car. Jumped it and was letting the engine warm up and the battery charge. After it got up to temp I starting setting the idle. It was sitting at just a nudge above 1k. When it had previously dropped down to barely idling and bouncing just above 0. I had been driving it like that for a week or so and after the engine warmed up idle would sit around 800ish. So I turned down the idle to just over 500. About this time my efan kicks on. I toggle my manual switch to have it run longer and bring the temps down further so my fan isn't kicking on and off while I'm working. I toggle the fan off after temps get down low enough and as soon as I do my idle drops from the 500rpm to just barely idling.


Also while the engine was warming up and the battery was charging my boost gauge was at 0psi rather than vacuum. It would go up from there if I toggled the throttle. When I turned the engine off closing ceremony took the boost gauge to almost 10psi.


I restart the engine, boost gauge is reading correctly at about 15in/hg but rpms are still amazingly low.


Can someone explain the difference between the two idle adjustment screws.

Fast Idle

[IMG][/IMG]


Not sure the name on this one, but man the pic sure captured the pollen on it (hood as been sitting up on it)



Fast idle is tied to thermowax and turning that screw does nothing for my idle. I am JDM with JDM BAC so I have no idle adjustment there. My only way of adjusting idle is the second pic...of which I do not know the name.

[vrracing]

I struggled with the idle setups on our JDM Tii.

I took the TB off to adjust the fast idle. I used a heat gun to test it. I put pictures and descriptions of what I did either on this or the other forum. The FSM is wrong.

The FSM talks about how to set the butterflies but nothing mapped to what was on the TB.

I used that big screw with the sleeve to set the idle. I used the two 12mm nuts on the throttle cable to ensure I had plenty of slack. IMO the engine should start and idle with the cable removed.

Don't forget the ISC. I grounded it straight to the negative terminal as I found that the bolt I was using under the main fuses wasn't working as a ground.

[JustJeff]

Originally Posted by vrracing

.

Don't forget the ISC. I grounded it straight to the negative terminal as I found that the bolt I was using under the main fuses wasn't working as a ground.

Is the ISC the same as the single green harness used to get CEL codes?

When checking timing I never jumpered anything. I simply got it warmed up, idling around 800ish and pionted a timing gun.

[Pete_89T2]

Originally Posted by JustJeff

I guess next up is to test AFM/MAF. One thing to note, I have a Cosmo AFM/MAF for a 13B. I'm assuming that could be a factor in the rich idle?

That could very well be the case, at idle and elsewhere in the power curve as the ECU uses the AFM as a primary input to manage FI. Is the Cosmo AFM a different part # than the original AFM that went with your ECU? I know AFMs are not interchangeable between S4 & S5 or T2 & NA's. I have no idea if the Cosmo AFM is interchangeable with anything else. What's the reason for using the Cosmo AFM, larger diameter opening/better flow?

Originally Posted by JustJeff

Is the ISC the same as the single green harness used to get CEL codes?

When checking timing I never jumpered anything. I simply got it warmed up, idling around 800ish and pionted a timing gun.

I think that's what he was referring to - the single terminal green connector by the battery that you ground when checking CEL codes, adjusting idle and timing. When grounded, the ECU inhibits the BAC from messing with idle speed, which you'll need to check/adjust idle or base timing.

[JustJeff]

Originally Posted by Pete_89T2

That could very well be the case, at idle and elsewhere in the power curve as the ECU uses the AFM as a primary input to manage FI. Is the Cosmo AFM a different part # than the original AFM that went with your ECU? I know AFMs are not interchangeable between S4 & S5 or T2 & NA's. I have no idea if the Cosmo AFM is interchangeable with anything else. What's the reason for using the Cosmo AFM, larger diameter opening/better flow?



I think that's what he was referring to - the single terminal green connector by the battery that you ground when checking CEL codes, adjusting idle and timing. When grounded, the ECU inhibits the BAC from messing with idle speed, which you'll need to check/adjust idle or base timing.

I ended up with the Cosmo AFM by accident and many years ago. My original turbo swap was done by a shop in Indy, AIM Tuning. While getting parts together for the swap I bought off eBay what I was told was an turbo RX7 AFM. I didn't know any different till many months later when the swap was completed. By then I couldn't go back to the seller so I used it. I've been using it since oh...about 2008 or so. No issues...well till now :P

At one time you could read the part # and that's how I verified it's a Cosmo, but now that sticker has been worn down quite a bit.

Thanks for the heads up on jumpering that, this is the first I've read about it.

[RETed]

Originally Posted by JustJeff

Something very curious happened. I found my battery was nearly dead, and not enough to crank the car. Jumped it and was letting the engine warm up and the battery charge. After it got up to temp I starting setting the idle. It was sitting at just a nudge above 1k. When it had previously dropped down to barely idling and bouncing just above 0. I had been driving it like that for a week or so and after the engine warmed up idle would sit around 800ish. So I turned down the idle to just over 500. About this time my efan kicks on. I toggle my manual switch to have it run longer and bring the temps down further so my fan isn't kicking on and off while I'm working. I toggle the fan off after temps get down low enough and as soon as I do my idle drops from the 500rpm to just barely idling.

When you get engine idling / running problems dependent on coolant temp, this implies the coolant temperature sensor could be the cause...
Does it check out?

Also while the engine was warming up and the battery was charging my boost gauge was at 0psi rather than vacuum. It would go up from there if I toggled the throttle. When I turned the engine off closing ceremony took the boost gauge to almost 10psi.

You talking strictly about the aftermarket boost gauge, right?
I think the aftermarket boost gauge is defective.

I restart the engine, boost gauge is reading correctly at about 15in/hg but rpms are still amazingly low.

Not possible - see above.

Can someone explain the difference between the two idle adjustment screws.

Fast Idle

Not sure the name on this one, but man the pic sure captured the pollen on it (hood as been sitting up on it)

Fast idle is tied to thermowax and turning that screw does nothing for my idle. I am JDM with JDM BAC so I have no idle adjustment there. My only way of adjusting idle is the second pic...of which I do not know the name.

In the first picture, the idle adjust screw is at the very top, middle of the pic.
I believe it's the same pic as the screw on the left in the 2nd pic?
The screw should be toward the rear of the engine, closer to the firewall.
The screw should be pointing toward to the passenger (US-spec) fender; you need to lean over the passenger fender to adjust this screw.

Don't mess with the "Fast Idle" screw, as this just adjusts the double throttle plates relative to each other - yes, it should not affect idle (that much).

This is still a stock TB, right?
No removal of the double throttle plates?


-Ted

[JustJeff]

Originally Posted by RETed

When you get engine idling / running problems dependent on coolant temp, this implies the coolant temperature sensor could be the cause...
Does it check out?

It did at the ECU pin anyway.
FSM specs for 2E:
idle cold: .4-1.8v
water temp 68: approx 2.4v

Mine was
idle cold: .532v
water temp 58: 2.357v

Originally Posted by RETed

You talking strictly about the aftermarket boost gauge, right?
I think the aftermarket boost gauge is defective.

Gauge is practically brand new AEM gauge. It mostly seems dead on, but every so often it bugs out and reads over. The manual that came with it broke down the voltage it sees in relations to boost the sender sees. When it is bugged out often times turning off the engine and restarting it corrects the issue.

Originally Posted by RETed

In the first picture, the idle adjust screw is at the very top, middle of the pic.
I believe it's the same pic as the screw on the left in the 2nd pic?
The screw should be toward the rear of the engine, closer to the firewall.
The screw should be pointing toward to the passenger (US-spec) fender; you need to lean over the passenger fender to adjust this screw.

Don't mess with the "Fast Idle" screw, as this just adjusts the double throttle plates relative to each other - yes, it should not affect idle (that much).

This is still a stock TB, right?
No removal of the double throttle plates?


-Ted

It's a stock JDM TB. It has double throttle plates. I just starting rebuilding a USDM TB that I'm going to put on once it's cleaned and adjusted.

[RETed]

Originally Posted by JustJeff

Gauge is practically brand new AEM gauge. It mostly seems dead on, but every so often it bugs out and reads over. The manual that came with it broke down the voltage it sees in relations to boost the sender sees. When it is bugged out often times turning off the engine and restarting it corrects the issue.

I have a Trust / GReddy EGT gauge that basically does the same thing.
I'm too lazy to redo and trouble-shoot the whole thing, but it works most of the time.
The aftermarket gauge has it's own dedicated sensor and wiring, right?


-Ted