Removing emissions

Pete_89T2 · 02-26-2014, 07:44 PM

I'm using a stock TB, with the coolant lines intact, but what I did for my temp gauge sender is splice a brass "T" fitting into the hose that runs between the water pump housing (by the thermostat) and the front side of the BAC valve. It works fine, although my gauge temp consistently reads a few degrees below what my ECU temp sensor sees - I have an Rtek, so I can log/display all the sensors that the stock ECU uses. BUT this works only because coolant still flows thru the line - it's not a dead end as Ted stated.

Even though you yanked out the TB coolant connection, you might try running some hose from the rear iron nipple to the nipple on the water pump housing to re-establish flow, and then "T" into that line for your gauge temp sender? Routing such a hose may be a real PITA without the BAC and the stock TB though, which simplifies the plumbing.

02-26-2014, 07:44 PM	#1
Pete_89T2 Lifetime Rotorhead Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Elkton, MD Posts: 874 Rep Power: 16	I'm using a stock TB, with the coolant lines intact, but what I did for my temp gauge sender is splice a brass "T" fitting into the hose that runs between the water pump housing (by the thermostat) and the front side of the BAC valve. It works fine, although my gauge temp consistently reads a few degrees below what my ECU temp sensor sees - I have an Rtek, so I can log/display all the sensors that the stock ECU uses. BUT this works only because coolant still flows thru the line - it's not a dead end as Ted stated. Even though you yanked out the TB coolant connection, you might try running some hose from the rear iron nipple to the nipple on the water pump housing to re-establish flow, and then "T" into that line for your gauge temp sender? Routing such a hose may be a real PITA without the BAC and the stock TB though, which simplifies the plumbing.