De-ABSing the FD

[speedjunkie]

I just deleted my ABS also, and kept the stock proportioning valve because I'm about to switch to RZ brakes (aka, a larger, thicker, stock brake system).

First of all, DAMMIT! I removed all my ABS sensors from the wheels, and I remember reading the Adaptronic can do a form of traction control, but I'm not sure if it would use those sensors as a reading so it may be alright lol.

I had gotten a delete kit from Alex Rodriguez, but a local guy did his with seamless copper line from Advance Auto parts and used the stock proportioning valve (and since I'm sticking with a form of stock brakes, I wanted to do mine like that too instead of an aftermarket valve), so I copied his setup. Well, almost. Mine is a little different. Like him, I made a mount to mount the valve directly under the master cylinder, but I mounted mine at a different angle. Here are some pics...

Here is the mount...



And here are some pics of how it's mounted. I remade some of these lines and replaced some fittings already because I had a problem with it leaking, but I think it's good now.





I ran the line to the passenger front under the crush rail so you can't see it.



I rebent the front lines coming into the bay from the wheel wells so they could meet up with the lines I made.


The lines that I remade look better because I used a tubing bender and got the bends a lot tighter and cleaner, but I don't have any pics of it now. I can take some if you want.

[RXtacy]

Originally Posted by speedjunkie

I had gotten a delete kit from Alex Rodriguez, but a local guy did his with seamless copper line from Advance Auto parts and used the stock proportioning valve (and since I'm sticking with a form of stock brakes, I wanted to do mine like that too instead of an aftermarket valve), so I copied his setup.

It may seem like semantics, but I hope that is actually Nickle/Copper alloy tubing which is DOT approved. Plain copper tubing would not be a good idea for a brake system.

[GySgtFrank]

Originally Posted by C. Ludwig

I've used the cheap flare tools with a bit of success but have since started having a local brake specialist cut and flare all my lines. I use coat hanger or similar to lay out the lines and get a length and take that and the tube nuts in and have them make up the lines. The line is higher quality and has proven to be more corrosion resistant than what I'd bought through Summit and the flares never leak. Stainless line is also an option if you want something that looks really nice. Just to be clear, this shop isn't one of the $99 four wheel brake places. They do mostly fleet service and do top rate stuff. Any decently large town should have something similar in the area.

Also, working in the OE production world, one of the tricks we use on leaky flare fittings is tighten and loosen the fitting 4-5 times in succession. Many times this will help a flare that's not quite right to get itself sealed up.

Originally Posted by RXtacy

It may seem like semantics, but I hope that is actually Nickle/Copper alloy tubing which is DOT approved. Plain copper tubing would not be a good idea for a brake system.

http://fedhillusa.com/

The flaring tools they sell/rent are top notch and the tubing beats the hell out of automotive store tubing.

[speedjunkie]

Originally Posted by C. Ludwig

I've used the cheap flare tools with a bit of success but have since started having a local brake specialist cut and flare all my lines. I use coat hanger or similar to lay out the lines and get a length and take that and the tube nuts in and have them make up the lines. The line is higher quality and has proven to be more corrosion resistant than what I'd bought through Summit and the flares never leak. Stainless line is also an option if you want something that looks really nice. Just to be clear, this shop isn't one of the $99 four wheel brake places. They do mostly fleet service and do top rate stuff. Any decently large town should have something similar in the area.

Also, working in the OE production world, one of the tricks we use on leaky flare fittings is tighten and loosen the fitting 4-5 times in succession. Many times this will help a flare that's not quite right to get itself sealed up.

Well my lines seem to be holding still, but I was sooooo close to getting the Eastwood kit.

That's good to know. Thanks!

Originally Posted by RXtacy

It may seem like semantics, but I hope that is actually Nickle/Copper alloy tubing which is DOT approved. Plain copper tubing would not be a good idea for a brake system.

Actually it is Nickel/Copper. I just call it copper lol.

Originally Posted by GySgtFrank

http://fedhillusa.com/

The flaring tools they sell/rent are top notch and the tubing beats the hell out of automotive store tubing.

I've seen that website before. I probably would have done that originally if I'd known about it at the time.

[Fendamonky]

Originally Posted by GySgtFrank

http://fedhillusa.com/

The flaring tools they sell/rent are top notch and the tubing beats the hell out of automotive store tubing.

Thanks for the link Gunny!!