S5 Turbo Fuel Issues

JL1RX7 · 09-04-2016, 11:28 AM

Even tried that. It still wouldn't start more than a second. It seems that it's not switching from start to run. Just changed plugs for shits and giggles. Still doing the same thing.

Yes on the switching relay under the steering wheel it has voltages where it should according to the FSM.

About to change the fuel filter today, again to eliminate any thing else.

Pete_89T2 · 09-04-2016, 12:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JL1RX7

Even tried that. It still wouldn't start more than a second. It seems that it's not switching from start to run. Just changed plugs for shits and giggles. Still doing the same thing.

Yes on the switching relay under the steering wheel it has voltages where it should according to the FSM.

About to change the fuel filter today, again to eliminate any thing else.

^That's not where I said to measure it - you need to measure AT each FI connector to rule out a FUBAR'ed ECU harness wiring to the injectors. Which sucks because you have to pull the UIM to get in there, but that should be pretty easy for you by now.

A harness failure on a 25+ year old T2 isn't uncommon, and I have a hunch that the common +12V source to the injectors may be open somewhere - that would show up as a sudden no start/no run symptom. With the key in "run", you should be seeing +12V at the "A" terminal of all 4 injectors, and 0 at all the "B" terminals. Just use a paper clip to back-probe the connectors with your DVM, measure between each terminal and ground.

vrracing · 09-04-2016, 12:18 PM

It's really hard to tell from the posts what is actually happening.

"When you use the jumper on the yellow connector it purrs like a kitten."

suggests that it runs fine if the jumper is connected.

But then right after that...

"Pete_89T2 -So when you jump the yellow check connector the FP runs as it should."

to which you respond...

"Even tried that. It still wouldn't start more than a second."

If it "purrs like a kitten" with the yellow jumped but dies if you pull out the jumper, I'd look at the AFM. IIRC, there is a safety feature that if the AFM isn't telling the ECU there is air flowing (that is, the engine is running) then the ECU cuts the fuel pump. That way, if you wreck with the key on, the fuel pump doesnt feed gas to the impending explosion. That is disabled when the key is in "start" as opposed to run because obviously the engine isnt turning over enough to activate the AFM.

Hope that helps.

JL1RX7 · 09-04-2016, 12:26 PM

Sorry should have made that more clear, when you put the jumper in the yellow connector, the fuel pump runs like it should. Now even leaving that jumper in there the car starts for a second then dies.

I agree with you on the AFM. But putting a known good one should have made that go away. But it didn't. I don't have a spare turbo ECU to swap that out to cross that off the list.

Pete haven't pulled those yet. Trying everything else before I did that. Going to the store to buy new hose clamps before I dive down that rabbit hole.

vrracing · 09-04-2016, 01:00 PM

Have you put a fuel pressure gauge on the system?

JL1RX7 · 09-04-2016, 05:48 PM

I don't have a gauge yet for that. Otherwise I would have. I have all kinds of gauges to measure air volume, but not fluid pressure or volume.

Pete_89T2 · 09-04-2016, 07:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JL1RX7

Sorry should have made that more clear, when you put the jumper in the yellow connector, the fuel pump runs like it should. Now even leaving that jumper in there the car starts for a second then dies.

I agree with you on the AFM. But putting a known good one should have made that go away. But it didn't. I don't have a spare turbo ECU to swap that out to cross that off the list.

^It should have unless there's a open circuit in the harness wiring somewhere between the AFM safety switch and the ECU. Swapping out a good AFM in that case wouldn't isolate that problem.

JL1RX7 · 09-04-2016, 08:52 PM

I would like to agree, but unless the break is on the injectors then everything else works. All relays have correct voltages. If there was a broken wire, one wouldn't. I haven't gone all crazy and rang out each wire in the circuit. But if it ran before changing the pump, then the only common would be the pump. Not the wiring. This doesn't mean that old wiring couldn't be the culprit. This car is so close to factory I wouldn't think this. It spent most of its life in a garage with some climate control.

Almost nothing is dry rotted or broken. Even the foam around the radiator was is reasonable shape. It didn't crumble in my fingers. To give you an idea. The foam inside the door cards was in good shape. Only in bad thing on the car is the speakers. They rotted out. Which for its age isn't a big deal.

I am leaning bad ground somewhere. When I started cleaning a few it would at least try to start for a second, better than acting like its flooded out.

Tomorrow I will change the fuel filter and check voltages t the injectors. Once I check those that should tell me what's wrong.

09-04-2016, 12:18 PM	#3
vrracing Rotating Assembly Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: TX Posts: 102 Rep Power: 17	It's really hard to tell from the posts what is actually happening. "When you use the jumper on the yellow connector it purrs like a kitten." suggests that it runs fine if the jumper is connected. But then right after that... "Pete_89T2 -So when you jump the yellow check connector the FP runs as it should." to which you respond... "Even tried that. It still wouldn't start more than a second." If it "purrs like a kitten" with the yellow jumped but dies if you pull out the jumper, I'd look at the AFM. IIRC, there is a safety feature that if the AFM isn't telling the ECU there is air flowing (that is, the engine is running) then the ECU cuts the fuel pump. That way, if you wreck with the key on, the fuel pump doesnt feed gas to the impending explosion. That is disabled when the key is in "start" as opposed to run because obviously the engine isnt turning over enough to activate the AFM. Hope that helps. __________________ 90 S5 Vert. JDM Tii with BNR Stage1 turbo. Pineapple Racing street port. Bonez cat-forward. Corksport cat-back with Vibrant UltraQuiet resonator. RTek 2 wZeitronix w/b. HKS EBC. Vis CF Tii hood. 3000GT wing. Ground Control coilover kit with KYB AGX shocks. Red and Black leather RX8 seats. Corksport Odura lip & bumper caps, OEM Tii skirts Last edited by vrracing; 09-04-2016 at 12:41 PM.

09-04-2016, 12:26 PM	#4
JL1RX7 Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Front Royal, VA Posts: 487 Rep Power: 18	Sorry should have made that more clear, when you put the jumper in the yellow connector, the fuel pump runs like it should. Now even leaving that jumper in there the car starts for a second then dies. I agree with you on the AFM. But putting a known good one should have made that go away. But it didn't. I don't have a spare turbo ECU to swap that out to cross that off the list. Pete haven't pulled those yet. Trying everything else before I did that. Going to the store to buy new hose clamps before I dive down that rabbit hole. Last edited by JL1RX7; 09-04-2016 at 12:31 PM.

09-04-2016, 01:00 PM	#5
vrracing Rotating Assembly Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: TX Posts: 102 Rep Power: 17	Have you put a fuel pressure gauge on the system? __________________ 90 S5 Vert. JDM Tii with BNR Stage1 turbo. Pineapple Racing street port. Bonez cat-forward. Corksport cat-back with Vibrant UltraQuiet resonator. RTek 2 wZeitronix w/b. HKS EBC. Vis CF Tii hood. 3000GT wing. Ground Control coilover kit with KYB AGX shocks. Red and Black leather RX8 seats. Corksport Odura lip & bumper caps, OEM Tii skirts

09-04-2016, 11:28 AM	#1
JL1RX7 Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Front Royal, VA Posts: 487 Rep Power: 18	Even tried that. It still wouldn't start more than a second. It seems that it's not switching from start to run. Just changed plugs for shits and giggles. Still doing the same thing. Yes on the switching relay under the steering wheel it has voltages where it should according to the FSM. About to change the fuel filter today, again to eliminate any thing else.

09-04-2016, 05:48 PM	#6
JL1RX7 Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Front Royal, VA Posts: 487 Rep Power: 18	I don't have a gauge yet for that. Otherwise I would have. I have all kinds of gauges to measure air volume, but not fluid pressure or volume.

09-04-2016, 08:52 PM	#8
JL1RX7 Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Front Royal, VA Posts: 487 Rep Power: 18	I would like to agree, but unless the break is on the injectors then everything else works. All relays have correct voltages. If there was a broken wire, one wouldn't. I haven't gone all crazy and rang out each wire in the circuit. But if it ran before changing the pump, then the only common would be the pump. Not the wiring. This doesn't mean that old wiring couldn't be the culprit. This car is so close to factory I wouldn't think this. It spent most of its life in a garage with some climate control. Almost nothing is dry rotted or broken. Even the foam around the radiator was is reasonable shape. It didn't crumble in my fingers. To give you an idea. The foam inside the door cards was in good shape. Only in bad thing on the car is the speakers. They rotted out. Which for its age isn't a big deal. I am leaning bad ground somewhere. When I started cleaning a few it would at least try to start for a second, better than acting like its flooded out. Tomorrow I will change the fuel filter and check voltages t the injectors. Once I check those that should tell me what's wrong.