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#1 |
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IT'S ALIVE!
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Richmond, VA
Posts: 811
Rep Power: 16 ![]() |
So just to bump this after a while. I drive the car 10 miles or so a week. I think I've put like 150 miles on it since I got it. Since the last update I've completed all the basic tune-up maintenance. Back in late August I swapped in a new-ish OEM midpipe (the one between the thermal reactor and heat exchanger) since the old one had rusted through in a couple places.
The tachometer bouncing at idle is getting slowly worse. I've since swapped the original OEM distributor parts except the points back in with no noticeable impact. I'll try them next. I noticed the bouncing will stop with even the slightest throttle input. For example, the throttle up response from turning on the A/C will cause the bouncing to stop. I've read claims ranging from bad connections/grounds, to bad alternators and igniters being the cause. It doesn't sound like the car is missing at idle so I'm thinking it's more of a signal issue. Another question: does everyone's SA smell bad? Like excess exhaust emissions bad? I've adjusted the idle mixture and speed per recommendations I found online and while the idle itself has improved the car still smells like it's running with zero emissions equipment. I also noticed the throw out bearing is kind of noisy. It's not squealing but I have a decent, low-pitched whirling noise when the clutch is engaged (pedal out). 5th gear also has a pretty good whine to it that's load/speed dependent. I'll probably do a clutch job next year and when the transmission's out I may pull the tail housing to look at the 5th/reverse assembly. |
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#2 |
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Waffles - hmmm good
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Huntersville, NC
Posts: 757
Rep Power: 0 ![]() |
You don't like that smell? My wife hates it but shes a girl. I suspect the TR is
not doing anything for emissions anymore because I bet a number of issues with the carb plumbing may be causing it. Also the SAs do weird things with the trailing firing (or not firing depending on gear you are in and a couple of other factors). This is all controlled by that little box the ignitors live in on the fender well (its a 79 so maybe no ignitors). Anyway, the idle being lumpy like that may be a timing issue or a mixture issue when no advance is being applied. At idle the vacuum should be zero and no advance happens. As soon as you give it gas it will advance pretty quickly. Go through the ignition section of the FSM and make sure its all set to spec if you haven't already.
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1980 GS stockport, Fat Nikki, RB Dual Facetfuel pumps, Holley regulator, RB Street port exhaust, 2GDFIS, MR2 MK I electric fans, 2G strut bar, relayed fans, lights and fuel pump, LEDs Project Fat Nikki Budget 12A rebuild Video setup < $30.00 |
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#3 | |
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IT'S ALIVE!
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Richmond, VA
Posts: 811
Rep Power: 16 ![]() |
Quote:
The only thing I haven't checked is the dwell angle. To date I've been setting that based on the points gap. I plan on picking up a dwell angle/tachometer over the winter so I can get better control of the ignition. |
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#4 | ||
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⊙⊙
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Great Falls
Posts: 1,258
Rep Power: 17 ![]() |
Quote:
Or you're cars on fire....
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