Lighter = Faster (N/A build thread #2)

[TitaniumTT]

Originally Posted by infernosg

The intake manifold is custom made by Logan at Defined Autoworks. I gave him the throttle body and am using one of his port configurations so it's nicely matched. The throttle body is a EFI hardware unit. It's the 55 mm IDA setup without the idle adjustment screws. Race Series, I think? I wanted their tapered-bore series with the idle adjustment screws but Logan recommended an inlet size of at least 52 mm. I see now EFI has a billet unit that tapers from 60 mm to 55 mm but it's like $1700!

I want to do DGRR so badly but it's very unlikely this'll be done in time. I'm getting all the wiring done now and assuming everything works I'll still need to setup the display and tune the car before it's driving. Anyone wanna help?

I would like to tune this one and see what it does and how nice it is to drive after all is said and done.

MAP based or Alpha-N?
What ECU?

Originally Posted by Nutsid

Add lightness.

Originally Posted by GySgtFrank

Pshaw! It's just money, ... the wife will just spend it on shoes anyway.

[djmtsu]

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

It's a Lotus thing....

[Nutsid]

Originally Posted by djmtsu

It's a Lotus thing....

Gotta simplify as well.

[infernosg]

Originally Posted by Nutsid

Add lightness.

I have no turbo so it's the only way to go.

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

I would like to tune this one and see what it does and how nice it is to drive after all is said and done.

MAP based or Alpha-N?
What ECU?

Haltech PS1000. Being naturally aspirated with ITB's and a big streetport I was advised against trying to use MAP although I have the provision for it. Getting this thing setup properly and tuned is the one task I fear the most. I don't even know where to start. I may have to take you up on the tuning offer. I'd just have to find a way to get the car to you.

I'm hoping it'll drive well enough for what it is and not be an on/off switch at 8000 RPM. Comfort-wise, it's basically a track car: no A/C, no heat, no radio, no P/S, next-to-no insulation, solid engine and transmission mounts, etc.

[TitaniumTT]

Originally Posted by djmtsu

It's a Lotus thing....

Originally Posted by Nutsid

Gotta simplify as well.

Duh

Originally Posted by infernosg

I have no turbo so it's the only way to go.

So instead of adding turbo, add lightness? Why not both?

Originally Posted by infernosg

Haltech PS1000. Being naturally aspirated with ITB's and a big streetport I was advised against trying to use MAP although I have the provision for it. Getting this thing setup properly and tuned is the one task I fear the most. I don't even know where to start. I may have to take you up on the tuning offer. I'd just have to find a way to get the car to you.

Trailer! Werd, the MAP sensor is probably NOT going to be the way to go, although it may help with some blending at idle if the PS1k will allow that. Otherwise it's just Alpha-N because physics. Just gotta make sure you've got a rock solid TPS sensor and mounting for it.

Originally Posted by infernosg

I'm hoping it'll drive well enough for what it is and not be an on/off switch at 8000 RPM. Comfort-wise, it's basically a track car: no A/C, no heat, no radio, no P/S, next-to-no insulation, solid engine and transmission mounts, etc.

Spec's on the internals?

[infernosg]

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

So instead of adding turbo, add lightness? Why not both?

Money?

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

Trailer! Werd, the MAP sensor is probably NOT going to be the way to go, although it may help with some blending at idle if the PS1k will allow that. Otherwise it's just Alpha-N because physics. Just gotta make sure you've got a rock solid TPS sensor and mounting for it.

I don't have one (yet)! Stupid U-haul won't let me use their trailers unless my tow rating is 5000 lb (it's 4500 lb). But if you're serious I can find a way.

Is there some way to utilize the MAP just for fuel correction for like altitude and ambient conditions? Like not load-based tuning but just simple corrections? The TPS is a Haltech (GM?) three wire unit.

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

Spec's on the internals?

S5 non-turbo rotors, RX-8 e-shaft and gears, S4 TII irons, S5 TII housings, and OEM Mazda seals (upgraded to FD corner seal springs) except NRS ceramic apex seals. It's got a large street port from Defined Autoworks geared more toward top-end power. Racing Beat pulley up front and their aluminum flywheel out back and everything's been balanced by Mazdatrix.

[TitaniumTT]

Originally Posted by infernosg

Money?

Originally Posted by infernosg

I don't have one (yet)! Stupid U-haul won't let me use their trailers unless my tow rating is 5000 lb (it's 4500 lb). But if you're serious I can find a way.

Everytime I needed a trailer from U-Haul I always had a 2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee v8 w/tow package and then I would show up with a 1998 XJ, 5k tow but they wouldn't let it slide, and I was always towing a Miata

Originally Posted by infernosg

Is there some way to utilize the MAP just for fuel correction for like altitude and ambient conditions? Like not load-based tuning but just simple corrections? The TPS is a Haltech (GM?) three wire unit.

I would have to go through the software again but there should be some baro correction if using Alpha-N

The sensor should be ok, my concern would be the linkages and the instal. The projay and rotary works TB are notorious for having too much slop and they just turn out to be a fucking nightmare to tune. Almost as bad as a microwrech and their whole strategy using the TPS to bounce between maps for crank, idle, and cruise.

Originally Posted by infernosg

S5 non-turbo rotors, RX-8 e-shaft and gears, S4 TII irons, S5 TII housings, and OEM Mazda seals (upgraded to FD corner seal springs) except NRS ceramic apex seals. It's got a large street port from Defined Autoworks geared more toward top-end power. Racing Beat pulley up front and their aluminum flywheel out back and everything's been balanced by Mazdatrix.

Damn, should be able to get past 200rwhp with that. I'm assuming the redline is somewhere in the 9500-10000k range?

[infernosg]

Time to get this moving again! I got a good amount of hours work in this weekend and the chassis wiring is 99% complete. I just need to do the reverse wires. I had a slight hiccup with the CPU and the OEM alarm but it turns out I just needed to permanently ground a lead I had previously removed. I can now retain the stock door chime/ignition reminder without having the horn go crazy every time I open the door.

I've got the harness and seating positions sorted so now I need to figure out a carpet solution and the interior can go back together.

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

The sensor should be ok, my concern would be the linkages and the instal. The projay and rotary works TB are notorious for having too much slop and they just turn out to be a fucking nightmare to tune. Almost as bad as a microwrech and their whole strategy using the TPS to bounce between maps for crank, idle, and cruise.

I haven't had it apart in a while but I seem to recall it being pretty snug. I'll have to pull the TB again before I'm done so I'll check it out.

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

Damn, should be able to get past 200rwhp with that. I'm assuming the redline is somewhere in the 9500-10000k range?

Yeah, the plan is to keep it at or below 10,000 RPM. If it's still making power above that I'll get longer air horns or something to shift the power curve. Although the engine is balanced I don't trust the transmission at those speeds. I may find myself looking for a replacement in the near future.

[project86]

Originally Posted by infernosg

Yeah, the plan is to keep it at or below 10,000 RPM. If it's still making power above that I'll get longer air horns or something to shift the power curve. Although the engine is balanced I don't trust the transmission at those speeds. I may find myself looking for a replacement in the near future.

I've been curious about the transmission issue with the higher rpm applications. What do you have in mind for a replacement? Could the factory NA trans be rebuild to deal with it?