would like info on my FC build

[classicauto]

Thats my point though, new bearings in a rotary really aren't needed unless they're trash. New bearings are more likely to spin and cause damage then old (but still useable) bearings for a number of reasons. One being clearances are so so so super important on new bearing engines its not even funny. The only new bearing engine I've had personal experience with had damaged bearings when I tore it down after blowing it up.........................every original bearing (that was useable) engine I've had has been fine however.

You should also know, if you're using an RX-8 e-shaft that there's a small (half thou?) taper on the front main. If you don't use an RX-8 bearing there you'll spin those fancy race bitches off in a hurry.

[TehMonkay]

is there any difrences between the s4 and s5 short blocks good or bad nitrided stationary gears, thats it you dont really need them though
no motter what im going to use the 5 rotors for the higher comp
Race rotor bearings, 3 window bearings in stationary gears (would these come in the rebild kit normaly)no you would want to order them seperate
FD front oil pressure regulator spring, rear FD oil pressure regulator(will do)
Streetport(will do)
S5 NA Intake manifold (what would be the advantig over the s4)(about 12HP iirc, and if my sources are correct)
6 port sleeves removed (um can some one explan this)aux sleeves suck, remove them
VDI wire open (can some one explane this)you dont have an option for the vdi on the s5 intake so youll need to wire it open
RB Header to exhaust of your choice (i was looking at there rase vershin)just get the collected version
RTEK or some other sort of tuning tool (whats RTEK can you lenk me to info on this)http://www.pocketlogger.com/index.php?pid=rtek7get the one for S4 NA
No need for an RX-8 E-Shaft in a mostly stock build (so no Rx8 E-shaft?)
aluminum flywheel
act street clutch (would like to pick up a used clutch and flywheel together for right know just a decent light weight flywheel and a up graded clutch ACT or exady dont want to spend 400 bucks thin tern around and end up swaping in a TII tranny and what not perfer git one cheep used but still in decent condshen no puck clutchs tho)



the rebild kit im looking at is a basic stock rebild kit and im opting for up graded springs i was told the up graded seal were to touf and could eat up the rotors or somthing like that hears the link to the kit im looking at
http://www.rotaryaviation.com/overhaul_kits.htm

this is not my first motor rebild altho this is my first rotary rebild

do you thank the stock injecters will be fine for this bild im hoping thay will beyes

as fare as suspension not a big thang right know but im looking i gess i eather want a full race coil over set up or a decent set of struts with a set of eibock pro kit and a caber caster kit[/COLOR]

[djmtsu]

Listen to the guys in here.

-The engine, you can go a whole lotta ways. Build it for mid level power, and long life. HP is not what its all about, no matter what some people say.

-The brakes. I think you will find that the stock brakes on FC's are pretty damn GREAT, that is why they continued to use the same calipers on FD's. In all honesty, nobody really NEEDS 'big brakes'. There is no point in arguing it here, that is just the way it is.

-The rest of the car, do whatever makes you happy (which means, we need to approve as well). If I see a big ol' wing, or sleepy eyes, I just might cry.

[Phoenix7]

I don't cry, I black out and go postal. in the end, we can only recommend things we think are important. If he wants to continue to do things his way then great. As long as he shares his work and final product I'm happy.

[Turbo vw]

im not going to go do any thang like a big ugly ass fast and the fouries wing lol im not a ricer lol im leavin the stock mazda wing on the car it will most likly be receving a set of 17" koing wheels im probly going to leav the koing stickers on the doors who knows whats under thim and of course its going to be lowerd when i start giting into suspension stuff and probly tent the windows and thats about it every thang else is going to be drive tran and suspension

[djmtsu]

You don't want Koenig wheels if you are looking for an improvement over stock. They design their wheels to fit the Honda crowd.

FYI- I stepped down from 17" wheels to the factory BBS convertible wheels (with wider rubber of course) and the improvement is amazing. I shaved about 8 lbs of rotating mass from each corner of the car.

[Turbo vw]

so hears the question now shuld i git the race barings or shuld i git new ones i know if there shot i will but if there not just stick with the old ones

[Turbo vw]

Originally Posted by djmtsu

You don't want Koenig wheels if you are looking for an improvement over stock. They design their wheels to fit the Honda crowd.

FYI- I stepped down from 17" wheels to the factory BBS convertible wheels (with wider rubber of course) and the improvement is amazing. I shaved about 8 lbs of rotating mass from each corner of the car.

i have a set of 17" koing wheels that i have ran on every thang from DSM's 240's, 300zx, explorer...... and the car has this koing sticker that who knows how long thay have been on the car and well dosent look to bad but afrade ifi go trying to remove it who knows whats under it so i figer use those tell i decided to paint it or git enuf balles to remove those stickers

[Turbo vw]

so if i git a chanch to buy a complet s5 N/A motor would it be worth paying just a litle bit more and using the s5 insted of my s4 short block just wondering

ok so a s5 intake manafold would it be worth porting and polishing it

as for tuning i have somthing in mined but dont know if it will work with a rotary yet tho

[vex]

I know I'm jumping into the discussion a little late (just cause I have a hard time trying to decipher your posts, but... I won't hold it against you), but I was pretty close to the same position you are in now about a year ago. What I decided to do was build the car from the ground up. What you need to decide prior to buying all the parts or even thinking about the parts is how much power do you want to put down to the road. What's your main focus with the car (or as I like to put it, the over arching philosophy)?

For me I wanted my end result to be able to put down anywhere from 400 to 600 hp and still be reliable. This means that I will have to pay alot more than most people to get it done right. Once I set the power level and what the use of the car would be I wanted to make sure I wouldn't have to go back and redo more than I had to later on (unless I wanted to). With that mentality I aimed specifically at the suspension first.

With your suspension, what do you want? You want to be able to brake all that power in a controlled manner. If you're HP goals aren't going to be Huge (read that at anything more than 350+ or so) then your stock brakes are fine. Honestly speaking there is no need to go to a large brake kit for the most part even if you exceed that rule of thumb. Just get new pads that are better than stock.

Next you want to look at your tires. Is your foot print big enough for your power? That's pretty easy to verify, up it. Granted some people run over kill on their cars, but they're in racing--so they need that extra grip.

After that look at your suspension geometry, do you need adjustability? Do you need stiffer spring rates? Do you need camber? Do you have or do you want to eliminate DTSS? These are things you should look at prior to your engine specifics.

Once you have your suspension dialed in it's time to look at your engine. You want high compression rotors from an S5. Why? They're not that big of a compression increase from S4. If the extra .2 of the ratio is worth it, then go for it--just remember that the majority of the horse power increase comes from the VDI, not the compression ratio. Beyond that there are some good things to do while the engine is apart: porting, 3-window bearing, ectera. RX8 eccentric shaft... That's personal preference I presume and I'll leave that input up to the more experienced members on the forum.

Also when considering your engine, what are your end goals with it? Do you want reliable power? Do you want all out fast from it? Are you going to convert it to a 6-port turbo? These are questions that should point you in the right direction with the project and give you a rough understanding of what to expect. What I'm always scared of is that if I do not have my suspension dialed in how am I supposed to control my car in a tough situation? Adding more power to no suspension increases is a dangerous mix to say the least.

Just my two cents though.

[Phoenix7]

Originally Posted by vex

I know I'm jumping into the discussion a little late (just cause I have a hard time trying to decipher your posts, but... I won't hold it against you), but I was pretty close to the same position you are in now about a year ago. What I decided to do was build the car from the ground up. What you need to decide prior to buying all the parts or even thinking about the parts is how much power do you want to put down to the road. What's your main focus with the car (or as I like to put it, the over arching philosophy)?

For me I wanted my end result to be able to put down anywhere from 400 to 600 hp and still be reliable. This means that I will have to pay alot more than most people to get it done right. Once I set the power level and what the use of the car would be I wanted to make sure I wouldn't have to go back and redo more than I had to later on (unless I wanted to). With that mentality I aimed specifically at the suspension first.

With your suspension, what do you want? You want to be able to brake all that power in a controlled manner. If you're HP goals aren't going to be Huge (read that at anything more than 350+ or so) then your stock brakes are fine. Honestly speaking there is no need to go to a large brake kit for the most part even if you exceed that rule of thumb. Just get new pads that are better than stock.

Next you want to look at your tires. Is your foot print big enough for your power? That's pretty easy to verify, up it. Granted some people run over kill on their cars, but they're in racing--so they need that extra grip.

After that look at your suspension geometry, do you need adjustability? Do you need stiffer spring rates? Do you need camber? Do you have or do you want to eliminate DTSS? These are things you should look at prior to your engine specifics.

Once you have your suspension dialed in it's time to look at your engine. You want high compression rotors from an S5. Why? They're not that big of a compression increase from S4. If the extra .2 of the ratio is worth it, then go for it--just remember that the majority of the horse power increase comes from the VDI, not the compression ratio. Beyond that there are some good things to do while the engine is apart: porting, 3-window bearing, ectera. RX8 eccentric shaft... That's personal preference I presume and I'll leave that input up to the more experienced members on the forum.

Also when considering your engine, what are your end goals with it? Do you want reliable power? Do you want all out fast from it? Are you going to convert it to a 6-port turbo? These are questions that should point you in the right direction with the project and give you a rough understanding of what to expect. What I'm always scared of is that if I do not have my suspension dialed in how am I supposed to control my car in a tough situation? Adding more power to no suspension increases is a dangerous mix to say the least.

Just my two cents though.

said nicely. I still need to pick Roen's brain on this too, in due time. he'll hate me.

[Max777]

Originally Posted by classicauto

With an N/A, you will come out of every corner waiting for a turbo to spool... only it will never happen.

That right there just made my day... thanks for the new sig quote dude!

Originally Posted by Turbo vw

i have a set of 17" koing wheels that i have ran on every thang from DSM's 240's, 300zx, explorer...... and the car has this koing sticker that who knows how long thay have been on the car and well dosent look to bad but afrade ifi go trying to remove it who knows whats under it so i figer use those tell i decided to paint it or git enuf balles to remove those stickers

umm.... hairdryer and goo gone will do the trick to ANYTHING.

Again, on brakes: If your car is 4 lug, then you need to upgrade, if it is 5 lug, then you have the same brakes as the TURBO model, and if they will slow that down, they will be MORE THAN ENOUGH for the N/A!

Please, leave any preconcieved notions outside when you are here, we rotorheads are like family, and only want to help. We wont tell you something like this if it:

a) was bullshit.

b) hasn't been asked 1,000,000,000,000,000,000,000,000,000 times by other people. We have all been there, and a lot of the knowledge comes down from very experienced people who know the RX-7 inside and out!

[Max777]

another double post... sorry.

[Turbo vw]

Originally Posted by Max777

That right there just made my day... thanks for the new sig quote dude!




umm.... hairdryer and goo gone will do the trick to ANYTHING.

Again, on brakes: If your car is 4 lug, then you need to upgrade, if it is 5 lug, then you have the same brakes as the TURBO model, and if they will slow that down, they will be MORE THAN ENOUGH for the N/A!

Please, leave any preconcieved notions outside when you are here, we rotorheads are like family, and only want to help. We wont tell you something like this if it:

a) was bullshit.

b) hasn't been asked 1,000,000,000,000,000,000,000,000,000 times by other people. We have all been there, and a lot of the knowledge comes down from very experienced people who know the RX-7 inside and out!

im not trying to be a ass hole im not i understand every thang ur say and that you have been there but i have been there with the brake befor right know not a big deal to me more woried about the motor than the brakes but i do evently plan on up grading thim and this is my resoning ok this wont be my first car bilt like this and for this set up ok i know how to drive and i drive hard not trying to be coucky but i was driving my buddys 300zx TT stock braks but with hawk pads and brembo rotors and SB brake lines up graded suspension and bolt on motor up graded FMIC, 3" down piped up graded to T28 turbos ....... made around 450hp basickly just about ran right of a mountin becouse the brake set up couldnt slow me down enuf to go around a blind tern yes i know i was a dome ass for going so fast but im not at that point in my life ware im willing to chanch it id perfer have upgraded braks and not haft to worry about it for right know

[djmtsu]

The 300ZX is heavier than an FC (I think), and dedicated track cars don't even use big brakes. Honestly, the only thing a big brake kit will give you (given the same circumstances as the Z car) is lock up will occur sooner.