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Re-Speed www.re-speed.com (GA) Custom rotary parts, specializing in 85-older |
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#1 |
Respecognize!
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Δx = ħ/2Δp
Posts: 3,190
Rep Power: 21 ![]() |
hmm...seeing your now my unoffical expert.
I was also reading about the "roll center blocks". Didnt really explain well enough to me as to why i would want them and how they effect the ride and if they are worth their fiscal merit. Aside from that would just getting a good poly bushing set as opposed to the spherical bearings stuffs be a good idea? Should i guess that the low control arm kit (the replacement rod end piece) is basically not worth while either?
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#2 | ||
Talk - Action = Nothing
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 166
Rep Power: 18 ![]() |
Quote:
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Metal to metal pivot points (As in Spherical) are harsh for the street. The major down side is the dirt and grime. They need to be kept very clean or the grime starts to score the metal. Once that starts you have slop in the sphericals. Once you have slop they get louder and sloppier. Best to stick with poly for the street. Our delrin stay rods are great for the street. Roll center blocks go between the steering arm and the strut housing. They basically move the outer pivot point (Ball Joint) down the compensate for the inner pivot (LCA to crossmember) being moved down during lowering. Spring length standards are 8" for the race kit and 7" for the street kit. -billy |
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