flooding out FC3S4 N/A

NoDOHC · 04-22-2009, 07:40 PM

You should charge the battery before you try to start the car.

I am sure that you tried adding two-stroke oil to each rotor, but I thought I would ask.

Even with a terrible tune (3-bar MAP tune, 1 bar MAP) my '86 started just fine for the initial start on the Haltech.

If it ever wouldn't start, oil was the answer (although it did pulse to 100+ psi on all faces - without any oil).

(The tune is better now and oil is no longer necessary).

You could also try starting the car with the accelerator pedal floored (after clearing the flood and adding oil). If you can get it running, keep it running for a while, maybe it just needs to be run.

If it is the FPR, you should be able to install a gauge in the line from the primary injectors to the secondary injectors and verify that.

edit: You really should try pull-starting it too.

Shadow24v · 04-22-2009, 07:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NoDOHC

You should charge the battery before you try to start the car.

I am sure that you tried adding two-stroke oil to each rotor, but I thought I would ask.

Even with a terrible tune (3-bar MAP tune, 1 bar MAP) my '86 started just fine for the initial start on the Haltech.

If it ever wouldn't start, oil was the answer (although it did pulse to 100+ psi on all faces - without any oil).

(The tune is better now and oil is no longer necessary).

You could also try starting the car with the accelerator pedal floored (after clearing the flood and adding oil). If you can get it running, keep it running for a while, maybe it just needs to be run.

If it is the FPR, you should be able to install a gauge in the line from the primary injectors to the secondary injectors and verify that.

edit: You really should try pull-starting it too.

Its a brand new battery but i will throw the charger on it before trying again

Haven't tried the 2-stroke oil thing, where would you put that anyways? intake or in through the spark plug holes?

the S4 didn't have a flood clear so whats the reasoning behind the full throttle starting?

Also, does anyone know what the secondary coil resistance SHOULD be? and can i run 2 blaster 2 coils in lace of the stock ones? (i REALLY don't want to pay the stupid high prices for stock coils vs the less expensive aftermarket coils) As far as i can tell the Blaster 2's would be fine, the primary resistance is within the OEM spec (blaster 2 - .700 ohms, spec is .2-1.0 ohms)

04-22-2009, 07:40 PM	#1
NoDOHC The quest for more torque Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Sheboygan, Wisconsin Posts: 855 Rep Power: 17	You should charge the battery before you try to start the car. I am sure that you tried adding two-stroke oil to each rotor, but I thought I would ask. Even with a terrible tune (3-bar MAP tune, 1 bar MAP) my '86 started just fine for the initial start on the Haltech. If it ever wouldn't start, oil was the answer (although it did pulse to 100+ psi on all faces - without any oil). (The tune is better now and oil is no longer necessary). You could also try starting the car with the accelerator pedal floored (after clearing the flood and adding oil). If you can get it running, keep it running for a while, maybe it just needs to be run. If it is the FPR, you should be able to install a gauge in the line from the primary injectors to the secondary injectors and verify that. edit: You really should try pull-starting it too. __________________ 1986 GXL ('87 4-port NA - Haltech E8, LS2 Coils. Defined Autoworks Headers, Dual 2.5" Exhaust (Dual Superflow, dBX mufflers) 1991 Coupe (KYB AGX Shocks, Eibach lowering springs, RB exhaust, Stock and Automatic) Last edited by NoDOHC; 04-22-2009 at 07:43 PM.