flooding out FC3S4 N/A

NoDOHC · 04-22-2009, 09:42 PM

You can get the coils for CHEAP on eBay or on here.

I am sure that someone has a spare set that they are willing to part with.

The 2-stroke oil goes in the spark plug holes after you have pulled the EGI fuse and removed the spark plugs and cranked the engine for 30-60 seconds with the gas on the floor. (I used a small hose to add the oil.) The plugs can then be replaced. This should get your engine running.

Flooring the gas will minimize the problems due to vacuum leaks and injector leaks and may give the engine a change to get to a good 3000ish rpm before all the starting aid oil is gone.

edit: Be careful to look at required dwell time on aftermarket coils. Rotaries have a tendancy to saturate inexpensive aftermarket coils at higher revs.

Shadow24v · 04-22-2009, 10:25 PM

ahh ok, i did find a set of trailings on ebay for $49 shipped...(kinda wanted them NOW though lol) going to see if the junkyard here has the FC body for the motor they listed and maybe i can snag some trailing coils there...

thanks for the clarification on the oil and flooring it. it makes sense now

Shadow24v · 04-23-2009, 09:39 PM

well, i fiddled with the 7 today a fair bit. picked up a trailing coil set and some misc parts for $50 at a J-yard (had 2 89+ GXLs). pulled the plugs, pulled the car in gear to de-flood the motor and actually got it to start while flooring it, it was running like crap though, still seemed to be drowning out. once i let it stall out after 30-50 seconds, i couldn't get it to start at all and the plugs were constantly wet with fuel.

picked up 6 qts castrol GTX 20w50 and an oil filter and ordered plug wires, plugs and a fuel filter as well. going to do a coolant drain flush and fill as well.

Decided to drain the tank and got about 7 gallons of varnished fuel out of the car. I think the varnished fuel has gunked up the primary injectors causing it to flood but i don't know if the intermediate intake gasket is reusable. the parts place list the "intake manifold" gasket at $50+ and 2 "plenum" gaskets around $9-$11. Also i forgot to ask about a pulsation damper.

I tried replacing the worn out shifter with one i got from the 89+ but i still have vertical play in the shifter and the motion isn't great, and its picky about going into reverse. Im thinking about getting an ebay short shifter with all new hardware to see if that fixes the issue (can't afford a mazdatrix one)

I also re-did the battery connections and bled the clutch system as it was dry. i still feel like there should be more travel for the clutch but i think that is going to be found in adjusting the clutch pedal.

If there is any other advice, im open to anything about now. One good thing is i dont have any dead faces as i got "pissh"s from all rotor faces when i was de-flooding the motor.

04-22-2009, 09:42 PM	#1
NoDOHC The quest for more torque Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Sheboygan, Wisconsin Posts: 855 Rep Power: 18	You can get the coils for CHEAP on eBay or on here. I am sure that someone has a spare set that they are willing to part with. The 2-stroke oil goes in the spark plug holes after you have pulled the EGI fuse and removed the spark plugs and cranked the engine for 30-60 seconds with the gas on the floor. (I used a small hose to add the oil.) The plugs can then be replaced. This should get your engine running. Flooring the gas will minimize the problems due to vacuum leaks and injector leaks and may give the engine a change to get to a good 3000ish rpm before all the starting aid oil is gone. edit: Be careful to look at required dwell time on aftermarket coils. Rotaries have a tendancy to saturate inexpensive aftermarket coils at higher revs. __________________ 1986 GXL ('87 4-port NA - Haltech E8, LS2 Coils. Defined Autoworks Headers, Dual 2.5" Exhaust (Dual Superflow, dBX mufflers) 1991 Coupe (KYB AGX Shocks, Eibach lowering springs, RB exhaust, Stock and Automatic) Last edited by NoDOHC; 04-22-2009 at 09:45 PM.

04-22-2009, 10:25 PM	#2
Shadow24v Rotary Fan in Training Join Date: Feb 2009 Posts: 69 Rep Power: 17	ahh ok, i did find a set of trailings on ebay for $49 shipped...(kinda wanted them NOW though lol) going to see if the junkyard here has the FC body for the motor they listed and maybe i can snag some trailing coils there... thanks for the clarification on the oil and flooring it. it makes sense now

04-23-2009, 09:39 PM	#3
Shadow24v Rotary Fan in Training Join Date: Feb 2009 Posts: 69 Rep Power: 17	well, i fiddled with the 7 today a fair bit. picked up a trailing coil set and some misc parts for $50 at a J-yard (had 2 89+ GXLs). pulled the plugs, pulled the car in gear to de-flood the motor and actually got it to start while flooring it, it was running like crap though, still seemed to be drowning out. once i let it stall out after 30-50 seconds, i couldn't get it to start at all and the plugs were constantly wet with fuel. picked up 6 qts castrol GTX 20w50 and an oil filter and ordered plug wires, plugs and a fuel filter as well. going to do a coolant drain flush and fill as well. Decided to drain the tank and got about 7 gallons of varnished fuel out of the car. I think the varnished fuel has gunked up the primary injectors causing it to flood but i don't know if the intermediate intake gasket is reusable. the parts place list the "intake manifold" gasket at $50+ and 2 "plenum" gaskets around $9-$11. Also i forgot to ask about a pulsation damper. I tried replacing the worn out shifter with one i got from the 89+ but i still have vertical play in the shifter and the motion isn't great, and its picky about going into reverse. Im thinking about getting an ebay short shifter with all new hardware to see if that fixes the issue (can't afford a mazdatrix one) I also re-did the battery connections and bled the clutch system as it was dry. i still feel like there should be more travel for the clutch but i think that is going to be found in adjusting the clutch pedal. If there is any other advice, im open to anything about now. One good thing is i dont have any dead faces as i got "pissh"s from all rotor faces when i was de-flooding the motor.