Starting a fresh rebuild

[MaczPayne]

It's possible, you might be flooding out the engine with the larger secondaries in the primary position.

Vacuum leaks will also make it very hard to start. I had the same problem with my fresh rebuild, found maybe 2 vacuum nipples that weren't capped. Squared that off, and the motor started up easy.

[TitaniumTT]

Originally Posted by vex

well, I have the engine kicking over but it doesn't stay on for more than a second. I took a lot of data logs when I was cranking it and will load them up shortly once I hotsync the Palm. what I noticed after the time cranking it, that although I was no longer using starter fluid it would still start, the more often I did this the more the engine pulled in vacuum. I even was able to get up to 10 inHG+ when it starts.

The problem is keeping it started. still having some mysterious issues with it--but will be looking into it more.

10" vac is pretty low. I'd deflood it and run a comp test to se where you're at with the motor.

Starter fluid is bad. If there was any scoring to be done, the starter fluid just helped it along.

Originally Posted by need RX7

Well if starting a fresh rebuild is anything like starting any other low-ish compression motor, a little oil in the spark plug holes works every time. Clean you plugs after.

Good call, but I'd be interested in what the comp is like.

Originally Posted by MaczPayne

It's possible, you might be flooding out the engine with the larger secondaries in the primary position.

Vacuum leaks will also make it very hard to start. I had the same problem with my fresh rebuild, found maybe 2 vacuum nipples that weren't capped. Squared that off, and the motor started up easy.

Vac leaks definately need to be found. Rtek runs a MAF system correct? Vac leaks will make it run lean though becuase it's letting unmetered air in.

If you're of the thought that the larger injectors are making it run rich, kill all possible vac leaks first.
Do you have an adjustable FPR?
Do you have a fuel pump kill switch?

If you have an adjustable FPR I would turn the fuel pressure WAY down and see what happens. If you don't have an adjustale FPR, try hooking up a miti-vac type dealy and lowering the pressure that way. What are you running for a pump and regulator?

If you have a fuel pump switch I would crank the car over for a second or two and then turn the pump on.

Let us know. I'm curious. Especially about the comp. After Goodyear severely overheated my motor I did a comp test and got 90psi F, 100 psi rear with one REALLY low bounce, as in ~75 psi low (flattened spring or warped apex seal, possibly scored housings) Not exactely what I would consider a motor that is within factory spec and I was still pulling 12-14" @ idle. When the motor had 50 miles on her I was getting 16-17" of vac and running 105 Psi F and 110 psi R, when the motor had 50 miles. I would be VERY curious as to what your comp is.

[vex]

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

10" vac is pretty low. I'd deflood it and run a comp test to se where you're at with the motor.

Starter fluid is bad. If there was any scoring to be done, the starter fluid just helped it along.

I doubt very much that the starter fluid actually stripped any oil from the engine as I wasn't spraying directly down the throttle body. I would just let the vapors of the spray get pulled in from the intake piping while I was cranking.

Good call, but I'd be interested in what the comp is like.

Me too. Unfortunately my friend still hasn't returned my compression tester to me.

Vac leaks definately need to be found. Rtek runs a MAF system correct? Vac leaks will make it run lean though becuase it's letting unmetered air in.

There may be possibilities of a few vac leaks, but I've capped off almost all the nipples on the intake. I'll attempt to hunt them down and see what happens.

If you're of the thought that the larger injectors are making it run rich, kill all possible vac leaks first.

I will, I was thinking that I'd switch the injectors so I don't have to worry about it anymore. I'll then tackle hunting down any and all vac leaks.

Do you have an adjustable FPR?

yes

Do you have a fuel pump kill switch?

no

If you have an adjustable FPR I would turn the fuel pressure WAY down and see what happens. If you don't have an adjustale FPR, try hooking up a miti-vac type dealy and lowering the pressure that way. What are you running for a pump and regulator?

I'm running a 3rd gen pump, and an adjustable 1:1 rising rate FPR from aeromotive

If you have a fuel pump switch I would crank the car over for a second or two and then turn the pump on.

Let us know. I'm curious. Especially about the comp. After Goodyear severely overheated my motor I did a comp test and got 90psi F, 100 psi rear with one REALLY low bounce, as in ~75 psi low (flattened spring or warped apex seal, possibly scored housings) Not exactely what I would consider a motor that is within factory spec and I was still pulling 12-14" @ idle. When the motor had 50 miles on her I was getting 16-17" of vac and running 105 Psi F and 110 psi R, when the motor had 50 miles. I would be VERY curious as to what your comp is.

I'm fairly certain that the compression of this engine is fairly low since I haven't been able to run it for any specific amount of time to allow the apex seals to wear in. But if I get my comp tester today I'll post up the numbers.