FC (coupe) stereo options? Little help.

[Turbo II]

Well shit, ain't that some shit.

I'm having the same thought on the 6 1/2 for the rear. What I have sounds good but I think, like you said, just going up one size would be a noticeable improvement on the bass and midrange.

[RETed]

Wow, since when head units were 2-ohm stable per channel?
Running a pair of 4-ohm speakers in parallel to the head unit that is not 2-ohm stable is either going to blow fuses or kill the head unit.

I would not run the speakers spliced like that anyways even if the head unit could handle, cause you don't have independent control over the (loudness) level of each speaker in the system.
Also, there is this parameter called "damping factor", and it's a valueless number that describes how much control the amplifier has over the speaker itself; when running parallel loads, the damping factor gets split is half - less control means sloppy sound.

As a rule of thumb, the speakers account for the majority of the sound quality of the system.
If you're on the budget, spend the money on the speakers.
Get speakers that are good at reproducing the sound that they are designed for; if you're using crossovers, no need to go really big up front.
BTW, all of the speakers (with the exception of the subs) should be running some kinda high-pass crossover, either passive or active.
Also, spend the money on the front speaker set; rears should be rear fill - no need to spend big bucks for fill speakers.
Also, don't need to runs tweeters in the back or run very large diameters, especially when you already have a subwoofer in the system.
4" to 5.25" is fine; 6.5" is really too big, unless you're just filling the hole.

Next, concentrate on the head unit...
Any of the name brand head units should be okay - even the cheaper models.

Last, (outboard) amplifiers are not that important.
Most of the head units today boost very good power as-is.
Responsibility of the amp should be only to make the signal loud.
I'm not a big fan is building in fancy sound processing - crossovers are a little different though.


-Ted

[Silver86]

great info Ted!

[djmtsu]

Originally Posted by RETed

Wow, since when head units were 2-ohm stable per channel?
Running a pair of 4-ohm speakers in parallel to the head unit that is not 2-ohm stable is either going to blow fuses or kill the head unit.

I would not run the speakers spliced like that anyways even if the head unit could handle, cause you don't have independent control over the (loudness) level of each speaker in the system.
Also, there is this parameter called "damping factor", and it's a valueless number that describes how much control the amplifier has over the speaker itself; when running parallel loads, the damping factor gets split is half - less control means sloppy sound.

As a rule of thumb, the speakers account for the majority of the sound quality of the system.
If you're on the budget, spend the money on the speakers.
Get speakers that are good at reproducing the sound that they are designed for; if you're using crossovers, no need to go really big up front.
BTW, all of the speakers (with the exception of the subs) should be running some kinda high-pass crossover, either passive or active.
Also, spend the money on the front speaker set; rears should be rear fill - no need to spend big bucks for fill speakers.
Also, don't need to runs tweeters in the back or run very large diameters, especially when you already have a subwoofer in the system.
4" to 5.25" is fine; 6.5" is really too big, unless you're just filling the hole.

Next, concentrate on the head unit...
Any of the name brand head units should be okay - even the cheaper models.

Last, (outboard) amplifiers are not that important.
Most of the head units today boost very good power as-is.
Responsibility of the amp should be only to make the signal loud.
I'm not a big fan is building in fancy sound processing - crossovers are a little different though.


-Ted

Alright almighty Ted. People have been running 4 speakers of the 2 channels on FCs for years. I just wanted to know if there was a better way, without buying a crossover (since mine was stolen). And I have never blown a head unit, or even a fuse in any of the FC's I have owned running the same way.

Also, I said I have a sub, I never said it was in the car. In fact I stated that I do NOT want to put it in my FC. So in that case, the rear speakers ARE important.

I had a system in my old 91 that sounded excellent, of course that was with 1996 car audio technology.

[RETed]

Originally Posted by djmtsu

Alright almighty Ted. People have been running 4 speakers of the 2 channels on FCs for years. I just wanted to know if there was a better way, without buying a crossover (since mine was stolen). And I have never blown a head unit, or even a fuse in any of the FC's I have owned running the same way.

First time I heard of this...
Recommended specs are offered by every manufacturer for their aftermarket head units.
I bet all of them say they are only 4-ohm load rated.
If you're talking about multi speaker set-up's up front through a passive crossover, then we're talking about a different beast altogether.
I still stand by my statement: if it's not recommended by the manufacturer, I do not recommend splicing a parallel load for a channel on the head unit.
If you're getting away with it then fine, that's your car.
I would never do it with any of my cars.

Also, I said I have a sub, I never said it was in the car. In fact I stated that I do NOT want to put it in my FC. So in that case, the rear speakers ARE important.

Nothing is going to reproduce low frequencies like a large diameter speaker / subwoofer / driver.
For me, 6.5" dedicated midwoofers cannot reproduce bass below about 200Hz without authority when compared to a dedicated subwoofer.
My "ideal" system requires tweeters, a 4" midrange, a 6.5" midbass, and some kinda subwoofer set-up.
This is what I require to minimally reproduce the full spectrum of sound.
Anything less is a compromise.

Sure, you can get away with using a 6.5" driver to reproduce low frequencies, but it's going to be a compromise.
It's your car.

I had a system in my old 91 that sounded excellent, of course that was with 1996 car audio technology.

Sound quality for people is usually subjective.
You don't know what is "excellent" until you've been exposed to it.
Most people don't know what "excellent" is.


-Ted

[djmtsu]

Originally Posted by RETed

Sound quality for people is usually subjective.
You don't know what is "excellent" until you've been exposed to it.
Most people don't know what "excellent" is.


-Ted

I have a minor degree in Music Production Technology. Does that count?

I am not going for any kind of 'awesome' factor, just better than the set up in there now.

I will most likely try the amped rear speakers, and run the front 4 off the head unit.