Aftermarket Springs and AAS?

[djmtsu]

Originally Posted by Max777

It's crap.

Alright, but all things being equal, I can hang with any combination of suspension on the Dragon.

[Max777]

Originally Posted by djmtsu

Alright, but all things being equal, I can hang with any combination of suspension on the Dragon.

That just means you might be a decent driver and can use the car better than a lesser driver with better suspension. Tires also play a big part in it, some Toyos will make any relic handle like it's new again, while a guy with stiff suspension and worn out all seasons wont be as fast.

[Ender]

I'm not real familiar with the AAS, but I'm pretty sure the ECU has nothing to do with it. There might be a wiring diagram in the FSM.

[djmtsu]

The ECU could care less if it is there or not. Just unplug the AAS motors at the top of the struts, if you want you can trace the harness back and remove all the wiring completely.

The switch just unplugs under the console and pops out. You can find consoles without the AAS and just swap out that piece.

There is no dummy light or anything that will come on when removed.

[infernosg]

Oops, by ECU I meant the control system for the AAS (I've heard people refer to the switches/motherboard as the ECU such as the horn ECU, wiper ECU, etc). I always thought the RX-7's systems were modular being OBDI. Either way, definitely easier to work with than my old Protege in which every mod required a resistor or something to trick the ECU.

But yeah, I'd probably just remove all the wiring and the switch just for completeness' sake.

[Rx-7fetish]

Originally Posted by infernosg

Oops, by ECU I meant the control system for the AAS (I've heard people refer to the switches/motherboard as the ECU such as the horn ECU, wiper ECU, etc). I always thought the RX-7's systems were modular being OBDI. Either way, definitely easier to work with than my old Protege in which every mod required a resistor or something to trick the ECU.

But yeah, I'd probably just remove all the wiring and the switch just for completeness' sake.

No computer for it, just the switch to tell the motors what to do and the motors. Just unplug the switch and remove the motors

[djmtsu]

I would help you out on the switch delete, but I have to keep it for my FC

[Max777]

omp does not have anything to do with the emissions, even S5 electrical ones will work fine with no emissions. You can keep the BAC no problem, in fact it's recommended, as well as the thermowax on the throttle body.

If you have an N/A, you can open the ports w/o the air pump. Check up Kevin Landers' write up.

As far as modding a 20yo, that's just the point, it's a 20yo car, not a Ferrari, so why treat it like one?

My car is fine, but it's hardly perfect, however I'm not disheartened by that, because I would rather sacrifice some little insignificant thing like a switch for better handling. Or a bit of low end torque for top end power. You'd be crazy not to... After all, modding a car is all about sacrificing one thing for another.

[Rx-7fetish]

Originally Posted by Max777

omp does not have anything to do with the emissions, even S5 electrical ones will work fine with no emissions. You can keep the BAC no problem, in fact it's recommended, as well as the thermowax on the throttle body.

If you have an N/A, you can open the ports w/o the air pump. Check up Kevin Landers' write up.

As far as modding a 20yo, that's just the point, it's a 20yo car, not a Ferrari, so why treat it like one?

My car is fine, but it's hardly perfect, however I'm not disheartened by that, because I would rather sacrifice some little insignificant thing like a switch for better handling. Or a bit of low end torque for top end power. You'd be crazy not to... After all, modding a car is all about sacrificing one thing for another.

6 bucks sacrificed for a fish tank valve and some vac line has my ports working perfect, no loss of low end or top end, just an hour to get parts and roughly an hour to install and adjust. I built the car 5 years ago when i was 16 and didnt find the need to get rid of anything your talking about. I dont have emissions where i live and i still kept it all on my car.

[Ender]

I eliminated emissions for a few reasons:
1) More vacuum lines, solenoids, and other crap to break and therefore diagnose and fix.
2) It looks like shit. There's a reason it's called the rat's nest.
3) Weight. The lines and solenoids don't weigh much, but the ACV, air pump, and air pump intake probably make up ~15lbs.
4) It further familiarized me with the car, its systems and how they were originally made to work, and then how I can improve or improvise on that.

[infernosg]

^^^ I can see why someone would want to do that. This car, however, is going to be DD so the ACV, air pump, OMP, BAC, thermowax, 6PI and related components will be retained. If I can remove some/all emissions equipment and retain those then great, otherwise everything will be staying in.

[Max777]

Originally Posted by infernosg

^^^ I can see why someone would want to do that. This car, however, is going to be DD so the ACV, air pump, OMP, BAC, thermowax, 6PI and related components will be retained. If I can remove some/all emissions equipment and retain those then great, otherwise everything will be staying in.

why would you want to keep the acv, air pump and the rat's nest?

The car drives fine w/o them, you can keep the other components like the OMP, the BAC, and warm up pellet, and remove the rest like I already said. I dont understand how "being a daily driver" has anything to do with keeping that stuff, cause it BARELY affects drivability....

Originally Posted by Rx-7fetish

6 bucks sacrificed for a fish tank valve and some vac line has my ports working perfect, no loss of low end or top end, just an hour to get parts and roughly an hour to install and adjust. I built the car 5 years ago when i was 16 and didnt find the need to get rid of anything your talking about. I don't have emissions where i live and i still kept it all on my car.

see? That's what I'm trying to figure out... I don't understand the need to keep almost any of it? To me, it's old useless crap that's taking up extra space in my engine bay, and making it look ghetto. Same goes for the stock fan and air box... I understand that some states you NEED to keep some of this stuff, but i can't imagine why anyone would want to unless you are trying to restore the car perfectly stock down to the last detail?

Emissions removal also makes it a lot easier and less of a hassle to pull the top intake off if you need to have access to the injectors or wiring harness.

[infernosg]

Originally Posted by Max777

why would you want to keep the acv, air pump and the rat's nest?

The car drives fine w/o them, you can keep the other components like the OMP, the BAC, and warm up pellet, and remove the rest like I already said. I dont understand how "being a daily driver" has anything to do with keeping that stuff, cause it BARELY affects drivability....

I have S5 and I'd rather keep the 6 ports functioning so that means ACV and air pump are staying. If those are tied to the rat's nest (ie, it can't be removed without losing them) then it'll all stay. There are some decent hills and such where I live, I'd rather keep what little bottom end torque I have.

[Rx-7fetish]

Originally Posted by Max777

see? That's what I'm trying to figure out... I don't understand the need to keep almost any of it? To me, it's old useless crap that's taking up extra space in my engine bay, and making it look ghetto. Same goes for the stock fan and air box... I understand that some states you NEED to keep some of this stuff, but i can't imagine why anyone would want to unless you are trying to restore the car perfectly stock down to the last detail?

Emissions removal also makes it a lot easier and less of a hassle to pull the top intake off if you need to have access to the injectors or wiring harness.

Because im only 21 and do not plan on driving a 1986 mazda rx7 base model for the rest of my life. Why would someone want to buy my car if i have to tell them that its not legal in half of america to drive (technically all but you can go without where there are no emissions test).

I was just proving that instead of going through all the work of taking apart half my engine and buying 40-50 dollars in block of plates and caps, and lose bottom end by wiring open my ports, i spent 6 bucks and an hour of my time to get low/top end torque and still keep my engine intact. I plan for the future. Now my 10th ann im going to ditch it all. I plan to run that to the ground...

Im also tired of all my friends ditching broken components of there cars, ghetto rigging the engine to run without them then using the "i took it off for weight reduction excuse" If i can have an average 150-200 pound friend ride with me and not notice to much performance loss, i dont see the need to ditch 30 pounds of crap, unless im gutting the interior too. And power steering, and ac, and heat, and my radio...... Its all or nothin man.

[djmtsu]

This thread has gone off topic.......big time.