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Old 07-01-2011, 10:13 AM   #16
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Found another turbo from the same guy that may be a better fit:

Compressor: .60 A/R T04B Cover, 51.56mm inducer/70mm exducer, 3" inlet, 2" outlet
Oil cooled Garrett center
Turbine: 1.00 A/R Divided T04 Housing with 3" V-Band outlet
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Originally Posted by Wesley Carlock aka RotoriousRX7
"Rotarys come with built-in traction control, its called no torque"
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Old 07-01-2011, 11:52 AM   #17
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You really should start a new thread with a proper Title...

That turbos sounds like a T04B, T5/T6 compressor wheel - my specs show 2.032" / 2.750" on the compressor wheel.
It's really too small for a 13B.
It maxes out at around 250 - 260 at the wheels on a DynoJet.
I used to run a compressor upgrade with that T5 / T6 wheel before and managed to make 254 at the wheels on a DynoJet @ 15psi.

I dunno what kinda spool you're expecting, but a 1.15 A/R turbine shouldn't be that bad.
In terms of compressor wheels, I'd try and look for a T04B V-trim or H-trim, 60-1, or T04E "57 trim" or "60 trim".
These turbos will produce anywhere from 300 to 400hp on a DynoJet up to 15 - 18psi of boost on the edge of pump gas.


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because you're only as good as your backup
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Old 07-01-2011, 11:56 AM   #18
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Good info. Guess I need to study up more on compressor wheels. But you think the first one listed would work ok?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wesley Carlock aka RotoriousRX7
"Rotarys come with built-in traction control, its called no torque"
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Old 07-02-2011, 11:05 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 85rx-7gsl-se View Post
Here is the specs on the turbo...Thoughts?

Compressor: 76mm wheel w/ 50 A/R housing
Center section: Garrett oil cooled only
Turbine: 1.15 A/R divided to4e
You talking about this one?
Whoever is giving you the "specs" of the turbo is an idiot.

I need at least inducer and exducer diameters of the compressor wheel.
The compressor housing A/R is basically useless.

(For turbine side, the turbine A/R and turbine wheel trim is minimum info.)

All the 3" (exducer diameter) compressor wheels I've seen range anything from a T04B S-trim (which is basically the same size as the stock Hitachi HT-18) all the way up to a 60-1 / 62-1.
So you're talking power potentials anywhere from 250hp all the way up to 400hp.
See what I mean by useless?


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because you're only as good as your backup
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Old 07-03-2011, 04:02 PM   #20
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Yeah I see. I have actually been thinking about this and decided I probably should just explore the limits of my BNR stage 1 instead of going to a bigger turbo.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wesley Carlock aka RotoriousRX7
"Rotarys come with built-in traction control, its called no torque"
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Old 07-03-2011, 09:41 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 730RWHP12A View Post
no water needed for turbos to last, save the water for the fish
So does this also apply to turbos with water-cooled CHRAs, such as a stock FC turbo? Because I'm not running water lines to my S5 turbo. It hasn't died yet.
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Old 07-05-2011, 12:22 PM   #22
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FWIW, I've cooked a non-watercooled turbo before.

T04-S, the shaft was blued all the way up to the compressor wheel. Did it happen right away? no. Did it last a good while? Yes - about 35,000kms. Was I easy on the car? No. Beat the ever loving piss out of it daily.

I've always fitted water cooled centers on after that. Any turbo builder worth his salt can source a water cooled center for almost any turbo. For the extra change and two lines I like the added long term insurance of the extra cooling.

But it certainly works without, just works alot longer with. EDIT: espeically a turbo that is sized for response with a relatively small backside, since there'll be more heat retained in that arrangement.
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