Plain Jane OEM nothing to see here rebuild

[JustJeff]

Engine is mostly assembled. I have to check end play on the eccentric shaft. To do that I need to take the engine either to a friends shop or any shop that will use their air tools to torque down the flywheel nut so that I can test end play.

The other option is to research how to torque down that nut with a 150lb torque wrench and a big bar. I know it can be done but not sure what's involved with the whole process. If anyone can toss me some advice it'd be greatly appreciated.

In the mean time I was concerned about whether my turbo blanket would fit so I mocked things up to make sure I didn't have to make any changes. The blanket does touch the LIM and thats with only minimal torque on the nuts. I think it will work out just fine though. I put the UIM on for the hell of it.

[RETed]

Originally Posted by JustJeff

The other option is to research how to torque down that nut with a 150lb torque wrench and a big bar. I know it can be done but not sure what's involved with the whole process. If anyone can toss me some advice it'd be greatly appreciated.

No worries about the ~360 lb-ft torque spec in the FSM.

Most 1/2" impact guns are rated around 250 - 500 lb-ft.
Just zap it with the gun for about 10 seconds.
Good enough.
Don't forget the thread sealant / locker on the threads and mating face of the nut facing the engine.


-Ted

[JustJeff]

Originally Posted by Ender

minivan

Actually its a Prius if you took enough time to look :P I am driving a minivan at times though. What I really love is driving the minivan to my friends tuner shop and the looks the dorifto kids give me.

Originally Posted by RETed

No worries about the ~360 lb-ft torque spec in the FSM.

Most 1/2" impact guns are rated around 250 - 500 lb-ft.
Just zap it with the gun for about 10 seconds.
Good enough.
Don't forget the thread sealant / locker on the threads and mating face of the nut facing the engine.


-Ted

I talked to the friend who owns a shop. His impact gun is rated to somewhere in the 200s. I was concerned about it but he says he's put a flywheel on an RX7 and they've had no issues with it.

[RETed]

I've used my Sears Craftsman Professional *electric* 1/2" impact gun in a pinch - that's all we had at the time.
That gun is only rated at 270 lb-ft.
I typically use Permatex "PST" (pipe sealant with teflon) to seal the flywheel nut to the flywheel / rear counterweight and Loctite red on the threads.
I've never had the assembly loosen.


-Ted

[JustJeff]

Originally Posted by RETed

I've used my Sears Craftsman Professional *electric* 1/2" impact gun in a pinch - that's all we had at the time.
That gun is only rated at 270 lb-ft.
I typically use Permatex "PST" (pipe sealant with teflon) to seal the flywheel nut to the flywheel / rear counterweight and Loctite red on the threads.
I've never had the assembly loosen.


-Ted

He told me how much his impact wrench was rated for and IIRC it was in the 220s. His shop is just down the road from where I work. If his air tools will be enough it'd be an easy process to have the partially assembled engine in the van with the stand. Put it on the stand at his shop. Hit the nut with his impact gun. Test my endplay at his shop. Remove the nut and drive everything over to the garage where the swap is happening. Once the engine is fully assembled I can repeat the process just before install.

[JustJeff]

Originally Posted by RETed

I've used my Sears Craftsman Professional *electric* 1/2" impact gun in a pinch - that's all we had at the time.
That gun is only rated at 270 lb-ft.
I typically use Permatex "PST" (pipe sealant with teflon) to seal the flywheel nut to the flywheel / rear counterweight and Loctite red on the threads.
I've never had the assembly loosen.


-Ted

Ted, my endplay came up way off. If I'm reading my dial indicator correctly I'm looking at .005 rather than the .0016-.0028. I took the keg to the friends shop to use his air tools. I tested it there. It's still in the back of the van cause I'm waiting for someone to come home and help me lift it out.

The only things I can think of are these:

1. My Atkins dvd states that I should have 60lbs on the front bolt. I checked my FSM and it says 80-89ish.
   
2. Or maybe that I didn't put the crush washer on front bolt. I wasn't sure when to put it on. During endplay test or wait for final assembly of the front cover, oil pump, etc. I erred on the side of caution, not wanting to crush my crush washer when testing end play.

I left the flywheel tightened down and once help gets here I'll get the engine back on the stand and play with more torque and the crush washer.

IIRC my front spacer is a "K" and buying thinner spacers is an option of course, but having almost twice as much as the end spectrum of movement seems like an awful lot. I did have to replace a rotor and housing. But was hoping that using mostly the same parts would mean not having to get a different spacer.

[RETed]

Originally Posted by JustJeff

Ted, my endplay came up way off. If I'm reading my dial indicator correctly I'm looking at .005 rather than the .0016-.0028. I took the keg to the friends shop to use his air tools. I tested it there. It's still in the back of the van cause I'm waiting for someone to come home and help me lift it out.

The only things I can think of are these:

1. My Atkins dvd states that I should have 60lbs on the front bolt. I checked my FSM and it says 80-89ish.
   
2. Or maybe that I didn't put the crush washer on front bolt. I wasn't sure when to put it on. During endplay test or wait for final assembly of the front cover, oil pump, etc. I erred on the side of caution, not wanting to crush my crush washer when testing end play.

I left the flywheel tightened down and once help gets here I'll get the engine back on the stand and play with more torque and the crush washer.

Nah, I think you're overthinking it.
We just normally hand tighten the front eccentric shaft bolt and then check endplay spec.
I've only had to adjust one down or one up front he original spacer in some cases.
I just took a peek at the FSM on the available spacers, and you're still within the available spacer options - you need like a -0.003"?

IIRC my front spacer is a "K" and buying thinner spacers is an option of course, but having almost twice as much as the end spectrum of movement seems like an awful lot. I did have to replace a rotor and housing. But was hoping that using mostly the same parts would mean not having to get a different spacer.

Yeah, that's the problem with changing out housings - that's what causes the different endplay clearances.
0.003" is like paper thin - ever see the clearance gauge for that amount?
Stop beating yourself up about it...


-Ted