Quote:
Originally Posted by RETed
Yeah, the toggles switch just kills the circuit even if the thermoswitch is triggered on.
Your circuit is wired in series.
I think what you're looking for is for the switch to be wired in parallel to the thermoswitch.
This allows you to turn on the fan regardless if the thermoswitch is triggered not; in another sense, it's a failsafe switch just in case the thermoswitch fails and never triggers!
Side note, I have never come across a thermoswitch (especially a cheap one) that is reliable enough to depend on for my main coolant fan trigger...
Those thermoswitches which rely on a "probe" pushed into the radiator fins are notorious for failing.
Having a back-up switch to manually turn the fan on is always a good idea!
-Ted
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I'm using a Starion thermoswitch in the back of the water pump housing. I definitely want a manual switch. The idea of being stranded by poor wiring is enough to make me want to kick a kitten.
I already have the manual switch wired in. I followed the S5 diagram, but added the manual switch like the S4 showed. Sounds like all I need to do is leave that wiring in place and still soldered to 86 on the relay. Then just take wiring direct from the thermoswitch to to 86 on the relay.
What I'm tempted to do is wire in the manual switch to the high speed of the efan, but for now I just want to have the car leave the driveway
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yzf-r1
Take your pathetic ultimatums and stupid "AOL" comments and shove them straight up your ass, you little punk. You avatar is gay as well....
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1990 Vert/ S5-JDM 13BT (rebuilt but with issues I'm working out). Rtek N370 1.7, 550/800 injectors, FD fuel pump, RB REV TII exhaust, Tein springs and Illuminas