The Number One Reliability Mod for the Rotary Engine.

[RICE RACING]

^ Best Secret?

Tune your car right!

You wont ever have these non existent problems

The apex seals wear on a taper and preferentially due to mis matched product, insufficient hardness, lack of lubrication, & poor tuning. Chopping up your rotor housing is 100% not necessary I have proved that. You just need to know what you are doing when you set up and run your engine.

200bhp or 1200bhp, some people can fuck up anything (BDC or HC) others have no issues.

If there is any secret then its water injection, but I already started a thread on that when you have tested as many apex seals as I have and over the amount of km's at the power levels I have then I will listen to threads like this and opinions like yours, till then most of the advice is crap *honestly*

http://www.riceracing.com.au/apex-seals.htm

(no BS threads about why apex seals break lol) I have run them to a couple of mm wear in height on 600bhp motors (not fiction but fact lol) and never broke a seal or had it preferentially wear or have any carbon wings lol....... its in how much knowledge you have personally.... not what you have collected in toilet papers.

[RICE RACING]

I will bet anyone who does these mods will still have preferential wear on an apex seal (any type) depending on the application.

You can see a carbon apex seal I pictured on a Peripheral Port engine (which I personally ran for a cumulative 150,000km over 5 years testing & 3 different sets of apex seals!) will wear the shoulders down, this is due to lubrication deposition and not carbon wings.

There are plenty of examples I can give across all the forms of rotary engines and seal types I have extensive experience with where the biggest root cause is apex seal lubrication and other factors and not this "hump" or the area around the plug. You only need to look at the wear on the rotor housing to see a biggest factor for apex seal wear where the gas pressure is the highest is in the center of the seal in the lower sector of the housing and this is more so when the apex seal temperature is out of control... especially in turbo engines.

This is why we water inject cars My #1 mod for rotaries

[Barry Bordes]

Originally Posted by RICE RACING

^ Best Secret?

Tune your car right!


If there is any secret then its water injection, but I already started a thread on that when you have tested as many apex seals as I have and over the amount of km's at the power levels I have then I will listen to threads like this and opinions like yours, till then most of the advice is crap *honestly*

.... not what you have collected in toilet papers.

Peter,

Tuning sounds like a good one for you to illustrate for us. A nice primmer on how to get the best out of ours engines would be great.


As for water injection. A little history. The first turbo kit that I made was in 1974... followed by making my first wastegate… then my first blow off valve ( I called it a “surge and lag pressure relief” because I didn’t know that they existed). Late 1974 I started using water injection because I had reached the fuel enrichment limit of my Spica 400 psi mechanical injection. This allowed performance exceeding a 911S, the fastest car at the time.


So I like to tune also. But a class would be great!

Right now my 5 yr old engine with about 20k miles (with housing water mods), a (10 lb spring) 12 psi boost. I think it is about normal.... 492 hp at clutch/ 418 rwhp on a 90 deg F day in New Orleans.
How should we tune it for more power at low boost?
Thanks,
Barry