GT35R setup help

***TitaniumTT*** · 03-10-2012, 08:11 PM

I was running 405wheel with a 750/1000 combo @ 94% duty

RICE RACING · 03-11-2012, 09:12 PM

Walbros eat more cock than the members in the BAW thread

I personally use a single SARD 280Lt/Hour unit
I run it at 45psi base pressure (no motor running) SARD Type RJ reg
I use a Keene Bell Boost A Pump at 100%
I use ID1000 primaries and ID2000 secondaries
I run everyday 30psi boost
I now run it at 35psi boost pressure
I run RRWEP140 WM50 water injection system
I run Full CDI coil on plug system

The car is a mother fucking rocket ship!!!!

With 275 Toyo R888 on the back (GG compound) it will destroy the tires in 3rd gear (goes to 100mph in this gear) and does 100-200kmh in high 5 second range.

FYI: Good sports tires wear rating of 180 (v's 100 for race tires) and you are like driving on ICE in the dry with hot rubber....... its fucking insane.

RICE RACING · 03-11-2012, 09:29 PM

Other tip bits

Garrett T04Z turbo 1.32 A/R
Tial 46mm WG plumbed back
3.5" full exhaust with two SMB mufflers
Exeddy twin plate carbon clutch (D-Core)
Link G4 plug in board (stock ECU case)
Sensystems 3.5bar+ map sensor (works to tested 40psi)
RRWEP140 also works as an Intercooler spray (needed when you go over 20psi boost)
HKS exhaust manifold (modified by me)
Full EGT feedback to ECU
Fuel pressure feedback
Exhaust pressure inlet and outlet (not used as feedback item) but is all logged
BLITZ I-Color Spec R (best boost control & mini logging system, very very handy)
Race Logic traction control, only one that works on a rotary engine in fuel cut "correct" mode
11 heat range spark plugs (daily driven, idle as long as you like, never ever fouled! thanks to CDI & COP system

My engine is a 3+ year old 100% stock standard 13B-REW motor, new out of the box, but never refreshed or modified in any way shape or form.

Car makes over 650bhp, its reliable and fast, no dyno sheet races here, whoever you buy parts off get them to show you some proper logs of a Race Logic system and see how long it takes to accelerate from one speed to another, this is the key to separating fact from fiction

Good luck in your build up

03-10-2012, 08:11 PM	#1
*TitaniumTT* Test Whore - Admin Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Right Behind you son Posts: 4,581 Rep Power: 10	I was running 405wheel with a 750/1000 combo @ 94% duty __________________ -The Angry Stig- DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!! 2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4 2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins 1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle 1988 'Vert - In progress 1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST! I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you? I'm pure Evil I'm still insane, in the best possible way. I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube. Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion. You win with your thread. Most everything It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff.... No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon. *-Angry Motherfcker Mode ENGAGED-**

03-11-2012, 09:12 PM	#2
RICE RACING Don Mega Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Utopia Posts: 1,688 Rep Power: 18	Walbros eat more cock than the members in the BAW thread I personally use a single SARD 280Lt/Hour unit I run it at 45psi base pressure (no motor running) SARD Type RJ reg I use a Keene Bell Boost A Pump at 100% I use ID1000 primaries and ID2000 secondaries I run everyday 30psi boost I now run it at 35psi boost pressure I run RRWEP140 WM50 water injection system I run Full CDI coil on plug system The car is a mother fucking rocket ship!!!! With 275 Toyo R888 on the back (GG compound) it will destroy the tires in 3rd gear (goes to 100mph in this gear) and does 100-200kmh in high 5 second range. FYI: Good sports tires wear rating of 180 (v's 100 for race tires) and you are like driving on ICE in the dry with hot rubber....... its fucking insane. __________________ www.riceracing.com.au Worlds best Apex Seals Coil on Plug Water Injection ECU Calibration

03-11-2012, 09:29 PM	#3
RICE RACING Don Mega Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Utopia Posts: 1,688 Rep Power: 18	Other tip bits Garrett T04Z turbo 1.32 A/R Tial 46mm WG plumbed back 3.5" full exhaust with two SMB mufflers Exeddy twin plate carbon clutch (D-Core) Link G4 plug in board (stock ECU case) Sensystems 3.5bar+ map sensor (works to tested 40psi) RRWEP140 also works as an Intercooler spray (needed when you go over 20psi boost) HKS exhaust manifold (modified by me) Full EGT feedback to ECU Fuel pressure feedback Exhaust pressure inlet and outlet (not used as feedback item) but is all logged BLITZ I-Color Spec R (best boost control & mini logging system, very very handy) Race Logic traction control, only one that works on a rotary engine in fuel cut "correct" mode 11 heat range spark plugs (daily driven, idle as long as you like, never ever fouled! thanks to CDI & COP system My engine is a 3+ year old 100% stock standard 13B-REW motor, new out of the box, but never refreshed or modified in any way shape or form. Car makes over 650bhp, its reliable and fast, no dyno sheet races here, whoever you buy parts off get them to show you some proper logs of a Race Logic system and see how long it takes to accelerate from one speed to another, this is the key to separating fact from fiction Good luck in your build up __________________ www.riceracing.com.au Worlds best Apex Seals Coil on Plug Water Injection ECU Calibration