Let's talk about fouled plugs

[JustJeff]

I used Atkins apex seals, new side seals, new plugs for corner seals, FD springs, all new springs all around. I reused the oil control rings with new springs. I replaced damaged front housing and rotor with used housing and rotor. I checked tolerances with everything that went back into the engine and everything was within spec. It's a JDM engine and was very clean inside. The replacement housing was also JDM and the rotor is out of an FD.

I did a compression test the traditional compression tester way. Engine warmed up, EGI fuse out, CAS unplugged. I took the front leading plug out to test and the rear trailing plug out. I had trouble getting my compression tester hose in the trailing front because of a/c and p/s. I was able to get it in the leading hole and went with that.

Front has even bumps of just over 90 and when I let the compression build it was just over 100.

Rear has even bumps of just about 100 and built up to 120.

From what I've read you want front and rear no greater than 20psi so I'm borderline.

I ohm tested my plug wires
T1=5.47 and is less than 3ft long
L1=8.07 and is just over 4ft long

T2=5.11 and less than 3ft long
L2=8.28 and just over 4ft long

I haven't tested the coils yet, Final Four is on for one, but I also need to read up on how to test the coils.

[RICE RACING]

That sound acceptable to me using that type of tester assuming it winds over near 250rpm test std. Anything reading around 90psi on a normal gauge should not cause plug fouling.

Have a look if you have a leaky secondary fuel injector on the front rotor, you can check this by taking off the top half manifold and simply priming the fuel pump. This is/can be a common cause too.