Plain Jane OEM nothing to see here rebuild

[RETed]

Originally Posted by JustJeff

I have gotten myself confused while checking my irons for warpage. I'm confused about the difference between checking for warpage and checking for step wear.

Warpage tolerance is 0.0016
Step wear tolerance is 0.003

Doesn't that mean there are areas on the combustion surface where step wear tolerance is higher/greater than warpage tolerance? I check my tolerance for warpage per the FSM at 4 points. Once I get into oil seal wear area there is an even greater tolerance(0.0008) and my 0.0015 feeler can slide under my straight edge. I'm also taking the straight edge across areas other than the 4 pts in FSM and finding some variations. Can someone help clarify.

Okay, "step wear" is defined by any gouge or valley *under* the measured surface.
I believe the FSM is specific to the areas - the most critical areas are at the 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock positions about 1" from the inner water jacket groove.

"Warpage" is defined by *any* deviation - whether is be "high" or "low" measured along a surface.
Technically, any "wear" (including the above "step wear") should not factor into this warpage inspection.
Warpage is to measure how much deflection out of parallel or perpendicular a surface is...usually across a broad area.


-Ted

[JustJeff]

Originally Posted by RETed

Okay, "step wear" is defined by any gouge or valley *under* the measured surface.
I believe the FSM is specific to the areas - the most critical areas are at the 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock positions about 1" from the inner water jacket groove.

"Warpage" is defined by *any* deviation - whether is be "high" or "low" measured along a surface.
Technically, any "wear" (including the above "step wear") should not factor into this warpage inspection.
Warpage is to measure how much deflection out of parallel or perpendicular a surface is...usually across a broad area.


-Ted

Gotcha, thanks for clarifying Ted.

[RETed]

If the $200 - $250 price tag for a brand new one bothers you, you can always get one used...
For a while, I was chasing a lot of them off of eBay.
I can usually get one for about $100 - $150 depending on condition.
If you're lucky, you can get one for under $100.
(A lot of pawn shops tend to dump them on eBay.)
You can always get them recalibrated locally through the Snap On dealer with a nominal fee.
Or, you can buy a calibration machine for like $1,000...

This is something that I would not skimp on.
That's just the way I view the work.
I first started out with a (brand new) Sears Craftsman torque wrench...
The nut in the handle backed out and fell apart in my hands...literally.
I went in and told them I wanted my money back.

All your mil-spec and civilian contractor torque wrenches will most likely be Snap On, although I've seen a few Proto's here and there.
You'll see them pop up on eBay - with set torque levels that cannot be adjusted.

This is something I see as an investment.
Your torque settings can make or break what you're building or servicing.
In the end, is the ~$200 that expensive?
Most of us drop at least $1,000 for a rebuild just on parts...
Specifically for the tension bolts, since we're looking at the 30 lb-ft range, you're most likely looking at a wrench that does 0 - 50 lb-ft.
(Rule of thumb is to shoot for the middle of the adjustment range.)
That covers the majority of fasteners in your FC short of the flywheel nut, front eccentric shaft bolt, wheel hubs, and maybe some of the larger suspension fasteners, so that torque wrench is not likely going to just sit on the shelf collecting dust once you're done with the rebuild (tension bolts).


-Ted