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RX-7 2nd Gen Specific (1986-92) RX-7 1986-92 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections. |
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#1 | |
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Honolulu, Hawaii USA
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Depending on gradiation, you could be off by as much as 5 lb-ft in some cases... This is why I asked what #'s were you shooting for. If you're trying to shoot for 25 lb-ft, if we account for possible parallax error, it could be as low as 20 lb-ft... 20 lb-ft is a bit too low for most rebuilders. -Ted Last edited by RETed; 01-24-2013 at 05:59 AM. |
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#2 | ||
RCC Contributor
Join Date: Mar 2008
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I may do a little experiment. I may buy both a cheap Harbor Freight clicker as well as a Craftsman. I've got some spare trashed n/a irons. I may find a spot to tighten a bolt down with all 3 wrenches and see how much variance there is. Maybe just do a nut on an exhaust stud?
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1990 Vert/ S5-JDM 13BT (rebuilt but with issues I'm working out). Rtek N370 1.7, 550/800 injectors, FD fuel pump, RB REV TII exhaust, Tein springs and Illuminas |
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#3 | ||
RCC Addict
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Honolulu, Hawaii USA
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I'll normally do a minimum of 4 rounds of tightening the tension bolts. 1st @ 10 lb-ft 2nd @ 20 lb-ft 3rd @ 30 lb-ft The above is done with the Mazda recommended torque pattern in the FSM. I'll do one last torque down set at the same 30 lb-ft final but just go around in a clockwise pattern - that's #4. Quote:
Most dedicated exhaust fasteners have special (thread) profiles to keep them snug - usually the female or nut side of things. Torquing and retorquing might not be consistent. I'll try and pick something else? -Ted |
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