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RX-7 2nd Gen Specific (1986-92) RX-7 1986-92 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

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Old 01-24-2013, 05:55 AM   #1
RETed
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Originally Posted by JustJeff View Post
I can get a Craftsman click wrench for $70...that I can justify spending if my beam type shows to be innacurate.
One problem with the beam-type is that parallax can be a problem.
Depending on gradiation, you could be off by as much as 5 lb-ft in some cases...

This is why I asked what #'s were you shooting for.
If you're trying to shoot for 25 lb-ft, if we account for possible parallax error, it could be as low as 20 lb-ft...
20 lb-ft is a bit too low for most rebuilders.


-Ted
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because you're only as good as your backup

Last edited by RETed; 01-24-2013 at 05:59 AM.
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Old 01-26-2013, 01:59 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RETed View Post
One problem with the beam-type is that parallax can be a problem.
Depending on gradiation, you could be off by as much as 5 lb-ft in some cases...

This is why I asked what #'s were you shooting for.
If you're trying to shoot for 25 lb-ft, if we account for possible parallax error, it could be as low as 20 lb-ft...
20 lb-ft is a bit too low for most rebuilders.


-Ted
IRRC I did the tension bolts to 30lbs. I was very thorough in checking them repeatedly. As you tighten them it lessens the torque on the ones tightened before the most recent. I went back through and checked them a few times.

I may do a little experiment. I may buy both a cheap Harbor Freight clicker as well as a Craftsman. I've got some spare trashed n/a irons. I may find a spot to tighten a bolt down with all 3 wrenches and see how much variance there is. Maybe just do a nut on an exhaust stud?
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Take your pathetic ultimatums and stupid "AOL" comments and shove them straight up your ass, you little punk. You avatar is gay as well....

1990 Vert/ S5-JDM 13BT (rebuilt but with issues I'm working out). Rtek N370 1.7, 550/800 injectors, FD fuel pump, RB REV TII exhaust, Tein springs and Illuminas
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Old 01-26-2013, 04:43 AM   #3
RETed
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Originally Posted by JustJeff View Post
IRRC I did the tension bolts to 30lbs. I was very thorough in checking them repeatedly. As you tighten them it lessens the torque on the ones tightened before the most recent. I went back through and checked them a few times.
Very good point...
I'll normally do a minimum of 4 rounds of tightening the tension bolts.
1st @ 10 lb-ft
2nd @ 20 lb-ft
3rd @ 30 lb-ft
The above is done with the Mazda recommended torque pattern in the FSM.
I'll do one last torque down set at the same 30 lb-ft final but just go around in a clockwise pattern - that's #4.


Quote:
I may do a little experiment. I may buy both a cheap Harbor Freight clicker as well as a Craftsman. I've got some spare trashed n/a irons. I may find a spot to tighten a bolt down with all 3 wrenches and see how much variance there is. Maybe just do a nut on an exhaust stud?
Good idea but stay away from the exhaust fasteners.
Most dedicated exhaust fasteners have special (thread) profiles to keep them snug - usually the female or nut side of things.
Torquing and retorquing might not be consistent.
I'll try and pick something else?


-Ted
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because you're only as good as your backup
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