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Old 01-27-2015, 08:18 PM   #1
project86
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Originally Posted by RETed View Post
It sounds like you want them under $1,000 (if possible) or just around that price...?

If so, you're going to have to give up some adjustability and options.

I absolutely do NOT touch anything China / Hong Kong / Taiwan / Korea.

Almost anything from Japan (legit) is overly stiff for street use - maybe I AM getting old. :P
This includes Tein.
Im not afraid of stiff. My passenger might be but I'm not...


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Koni yellows - by themselves, for the FC - are like $500 - $600 for all 4 corners.
Problem is that the fronts are "strut inserts," and you need the hack the bottom, stock MacPherson strut housing to make them work.
Also, these are not drop-in fitments, so the strut shaft are not the same dimensions as the stock pieces.
I would really probably prefer a drop in option just for the convenience.. and if i have to pay for that then so be it.

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One of the biggest problems with those complete coilover systems is that if they start to go bad - and they will - how will you service them?
Tein does have a USA service center.
Most of the other brand do NOT - even most of the Japan brands like Cusco, HKS, etc.
I have considered that. Which is one reason why I was attracted to the BC set up other than the fact that I've actually been in cars that had them. At least i was under the impression that they could be serviced in the states.

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You want cheap?
Start with a set of KYB AGX's - these are the best bang-for-the-buck shocks for the FC...


-Ted
I'm really not overly concerned with cheap. I just don't want to unnecessarily spend more than i need to. I have Tokico blues and Eibach pro springs on the car now and i enjoyed them. But looking back on it i wish i would have just spend the extra couple three hundred on coilovers instead.
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Old 01-27-2015, 08:22 PM   #2
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You guys quit making me want another FC....
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Old 01-28-2015, 07:50 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by project86 View Post
Ted. I really just plan on spirited street driving and maybe some occasional track use (autox or road racing) if the opportunity presents itself.
IF that's how the car will be used, THEN...

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Originally Posted by RETed View Post
Start with a set of KYB AGX's - these are the best bang-for-the-buck shocks for the FC...


-Ted

^Go with this, and a few other suspension bits you'll be super happy. I use my FC the same as you, and my setup started with the KYB AGX's. At the same time I put those in, I installed a set of Racing Beat springs, and later on replaced most of the stock bushings with the Energy Suspension polyurethane replacements (i.e, stabilizer bar bushings, front/rear control arms, etc.). Also added the Racing Beat "DTSS eliminator" bushings, because it felt like the stock DTSS bushings were worn out, and made the rear end handle unpredictably at the limits.

I'm still on stock wheels & tire sizes, and am very happy with this setup.
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Old 01-28-2015, 08:06 AM   #4
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^Go with this, and a few other suspension bits you'll be super happy. I use my FC the same as you, and my setup started with the KYB AGX's. At the same time I put those in, I installed a set of Racing Beat springs, and later on replaced most of the stock bushings with the Energy Suspension polyurethane replacements (i.e, stabilizer bar bushings, front/rear control arms, etc.). Also added the Racing Beat "DTSS eliminator" bushings, because it felt like the stock DTSS bushings were worn out, and made the rear end handle unpredictably at the limits.

I'm still on stock wheels & tire sizes, and am very happy with this setup.
So... this is where i might sound silly....... but i want the to be able to make the car as low as I feel like. Im not one of the "hella flush" fan boys or anything but i do like to aggressive look of a low FC and I'm not planning on running stock size/offset wheels. I am about to replace all the suspension bushings with the same kit and getting the rear toe steer eliminator bushings.

Would you mind posting some pictures of what your car looks like with your set up?
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Old 01-28-2015, 08:10 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by project86 View Post
Would you mind posting some pictures of what your car looks like with your set up?
Here you go... this was at DGRR, last year or year before, forget which but same suspension & stock wheels.

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Old 01-28-2015, 12:06 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by project86 View Post
So... this is where i might sound silly....... but i want the to be able to make the car as low as I feel like. Im not one of the "hella flush" fan boys or anything but i do like to aggressive look of a low FC and I'm not planning on running stock size/offset wheels. I am about to replace all the suspension bushings with the same kit and getting the rear toe steer eliminator bushings.
Watch out...

The FC doesn't like going that low without running into major camber problems, especially in the rear.
An (upright) rear camber adjust rod will only take out so much (negative) camber in the rear.
Even with the adjustable links on the front of the rear subframe, you end up smacking the whole thing on compression.
Pete_89T2's pic looks like it has a smidgen too much camber in the rear, or it's a weird illusion of the pic due to the compression of the suspension due to the turn...

You'd get away with about 2 - 3 "fingers" of gap in the rear before there is really too much (negative) camber.
Remember, rear camber hurts your straight-line acceleration due to inefficient contact patch of the rear tires (upon acceleration).
It also causes uneven tire wear back there.

Fronts are no problem due to almost any off-the-shelf front camber plates can dial it all out.
It's still a bit problem in the rear on really drastic drops...


-Ted
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Old 01-28-2015, 12:10 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RETed View Post
Watch out...

The FC doesn't like going that low without running into major camber problems, especially in the rear.
An (upright) rear camber adjust rod will only take out so much (negative) camber in the rear.
Even with the adjustable links on the front of the rear subframe, you end up smacking the whole thing on compression.
Pete_89T2's pic looks like it has a smidgen too much camber in the rear, or it's a weird illusion of the pic due to the compression of the suspension due to the turn...

You'd get away with about 2 - 3 "fingers" of gap in the rear before there is really too much (negative) camber.
Remember, rear camber hurts your straight-line acceleration due to inefficient contact patch of the rear tires (upon acceleration).
It also causes uneven tire wear back there.

Fronts are no problem due to almost any off-the-shelf front camber plates can dial it all out.
It's still a bit problem in the rear on really drastic drops...


-Ted
EDIT: just remembered Mazdatrix sells rear camber links to adjust it... im unsure what the mechanical limits are though.
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Last edited by project86; 01-28-2015 at 12:17 PM.
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Old 01-28-2015, 12:23 PM   #8
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EDIT: just remembered Mazdatrix sells rear camber links to adjust it... im unsure what the mechanical limits are though.


Thats why mine was so low short stroke coilers and I had AWR eerything in the arse lateral links spherical bearings etc.
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Old 01-28-2015, 12:49 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RETed View Post
Pete_89T2's pic looks like it has a smidgen too much camber in the rear, or it's a weird illusion of the pic due to the compression of the suspension due to the turn...
^I noticed that in the picture too, and wondered why it looked that way. I always assumed it's just the lateral-G loading combined with the wavy road surface crowning. The RB springs I have are supposed to lower the car about 3/4", but when I measured the difference (from subframe rails to my garage floor), the difference was only about 1/4" lower than with my stock springs & shocks. Granted, the stock springs were likely worn out and sagging when I replaced them.
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Old 01-28-2015, 12:56 PM   #10
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^I noticed that in the picture too, and wondered why it looked that way. I always assumed it's just the lateral-G loading combined with the wavy road surface crowning. The RB springs I have are supposed to lower the car about 3/4", but when I measured the difference (from subframe rails to my garage floor), the difference was only about 1/4" lower than with my stock springs & shocks. Granted, the stock springs were likely worn out and sagging when I replaced them.

Haha the dreaded worn out spension lift when replaced....
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