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Old 10-29-2015, 05:23 PM   #181
GySgtFrank
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Gunny - Fluke if you have a big budget. They are worth it. But hot damn do they cost an arm and a kidney. The one I use for work lists around 800. You should be able to find a decent one in the 150 to 200 range.
Thanks, I'll have to look into those, as I have never heard of them. I don't mind paying reasonable money for good tools. It pisses me off to pay a lot for something, only to find out that it is just as big of a POS as the cheap crap.
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Old 10-29-2015, 05:46 PM   #182
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Can't miss the bright yellow cases they have on all their stuff. Even after four years of use, all mine has needed was batteries and a fuse.
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Old 10-29-2015, 08:09 PM   #183
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As much as I love my Flukes too...
I almost never use them cause I ph33r damaging them. :P

I use my Craftsman unit a LOT.
$10 when Sears does their 50% off sales...
Cheap ass, and I don't give a shit if I throw it around.


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because you're only as good as your backup
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Old 10-29-2015, 08:22 PM   #184
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I would second Fluke. I have a craftsman also it's a cheap pos IMHO
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but I'm getting old
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It allows me to secks them before they're cool
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Old 10-29-2015, 10:55 PM   #185
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Originally Posted by RETed View Post
As much as I love my Flukes too...
I almost never use them cause I ph33r damaging them. :P

I use my Craftsman unit a LOT.
$10 when Sears does their 50% off sales...
Cheap ass, and I don't give a shit if I throw it around.


-Ted

I use Flukes at work which are very nice but at home I use a digital Craftsman that I've owned for many years without fault, have only had to change the battery and the fuse.
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Old 10-30-2015, 07:03 PM   #186
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Finished cutting, fitting and tacking the inside portion of the muffler/X pipe/collector/pre-silencer (or whatever you want to call it) that fits under the transmission opening.

presilencer (inside) 1 by Kevin Frank, on Flickr


presilencer (inside) 2 by Kevin Frank, on Flickr


presilencer (inside) 3 by Kevin Frank, on Flickr


This needs to be finish tig'ed and wrapped in medium and coarse stainless steel wool before being enclosed in a stainless steel case. The bolts that will attach it to the rest of the exhaust system need to be tig'ed into the flange holes with the flanges sealed and tig'ed to the case. Not perfect alignment on the one leg, but pretty close. I hope that between the exhaust pulses merging and the slight angle in the wrapped case, it will cut down a little on the noise before it hits the other two mufflers. It isn't going to be a very big case (approx. 12" x 10 - 12") so I had to use a couple of other strategies to quiet things down with this one. I may be kidding myself that this will help, but it certainly can't hurt.
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Old 10-30-2015, 08:50 PM   #187
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I'd also get a Fluke if $ was no object. But, believe it or not Harbor Freight sells a good multimeter that I haven't been able to break yet after a few years of use on the cars & home. Dirt cheap too for what you get. This is the one I got...

http://www.harborfreight.com/11-func...ity-61593.html
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Old 10-30-2015, 09:12 PM   #188
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I'd also get a Fluke if $ was no object. But, believe it or not Harbor Freight sells a good multimeter that I haven't been able to break yet after a few years of use on the cars & home. Dirt cheap too for what you get. This is the one I got...

http://www.harborfreight.com/11-func...ity-61593.html
Interesting, the low end Fluke multimeters are in the $100 -$150 range. The cheapies are tempting. It would be nice to have a good one for a change though.

The test leads are what I usually destroy somehow. I don't know how, but every time I reach in my toolbox for a multimeter the leads are either destroyed or missing.
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Old 10-31-2015, 06:12 AM   #189
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The test leads are what I usually destroy somehow. I don't know how, but every time I reach in my toolbox for a multimeter the leads are either destroyed or missing.
Good point, and the leads are probably the weakest point on the HF meter. Haven't broken them yet, but I do tend to take good care not to. I segregate my meters and more delicate test/measurement tools into their own drawer in the tool chest to avoid them getting banged around. FWIW, I'm pretty sure the HF meter leads use an industry standard jack, so you should be able to source better quality replacement leads somewhere else.
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Old 10-31-2015, 11:35 AM   #190
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Another vote for Fluke.

I've been using my Fluke 77 for 10 years and it was a hand me down from my father who probably purchased it in the early '90s. Wouldn't trade it for any other meter.

I would have no qualms trusting an old Fluke like the one I own.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FLUKE-77-Ser...-/301780826868
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Old 10-31-2015, 12:13 PM   #191
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Another vote for Fluke.

I've been using my Fluke 77 for 10 years and it was a hand me down from my father who probably purchased it in the early '90s. Wouldn't trade it for any other meter.

I would have no qualms trusting an old Fluke like the one I own.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FLUKE-77-Ser...-/301780826868
... and another Fluke vote from Scott. I'm intrigued as to why so many people swear by these meters.
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Old 10-31-2015, 12:44 PM   #192
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Had one at the club, thing put up to the most ridiculous abuse imaginable... The only thing or did not survive was being dropped in the bilge and submerged. Bought another, lasted until some asshole kicked it off the dock. It still worked for a day or two after being brought up from the deep... After that they bought the crap ones.... That I once intentionally dropped from our crane
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It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact

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Old 10-31-2015, 12:53 PM   #193
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Had one at the club, thing put up to the most ridiculous abuse imaginable... The only thing or did not survive was being dropped in the bilge and submerged. Bought another, lasted until some asshole kicked it off the dock. It still worked for a day or two after being brought up from the deep... After that they bought the crap ones.... That I once intentionally dropped from our crane
That always seems to be the problem with buying nice things. Somebody borrows them and either destroys it or conveniently forgets to return it.
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Old 10-31-2015, 01:32 PM   #194
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I've just started with my first Rx7 build ; So I started looking for forums .(. Always like as much info as possible) & I ran across this thread read through all 13 pages ! .. && I'll say .. I'm probably more excited to see your complete build, then my own ..
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Old 10-31-2015, 01:32 PM   #195
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I never bought one, club bought them all but after killing two in quick succussion, the allowable cost was cut by 90% from the $150 range lol
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DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!!

2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4
2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter
2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins
1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle
1988 'Vert - In progress
1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST!


I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you?
I'm pure Evil
I'm still insane, in the best possible way.
I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube.
Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion.
You win with your thread. Most everything
It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact

Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff....
No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon.
-Angry Motherf*cker Mode ENGAGED-
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