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RX-7 2nd Gen Specific (1986-92) RX-7 1986-92 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections. |
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#1 |
Rotary Fanatic
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Mid State Illinois
Posts: 159
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200 hp questions?
Backround
Hey you guys im going to be running a 13b na with ITB's megasquirt, and probably a large street port. im hoping after its all said in done i will have around 200hp with other mods. my question is right now im not SP and im just seeing what i can get out of itb's. Question. What kinda of Hp is safe with the stock Fuel pump and injectors and at what point should i upgrade. im thinkin for 200 or so a wall bro 255 and a bit larger injectors would be fine but what do you guys think? THanks
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1988 Fc Vert. Super Stock 1990 Fc Hard top: Brideported 13b, weber carb, 350z wheels w/nitrogen, or 16in BBS meshies, Msd, Racaro Racing Seats, Custom Gauge cluster, custom Intake, Relocated Battery, 3inch header back borla exhaust system, Alpine stereo system, Wire tucked, S4 shift boot&knob, custom Strut bar, And soon to come a Full black w/ gold pearl paint job, powder coated break calipers, all black interior, bride headliner/door panels. ![]() |
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#2 |
Sigh.....
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Murfreesboro, TN
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You'd roughly be pushing 80% duty cycle on the 460cc's at 200hp. You could just get the TII injectors and fuel pump.
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1986 Sport: 132k miles, 5A (Sapphire Blue Metallic), Tokico Blues, Racing Beat Springs, Custom LED tailights (only S4 LED tails in the world), SSR Mark II, Racing Beat exhaust, S5 black interior, Rotary Resurrection rebuild at 120k miles Community Service Manual RotorWiki "Imagination costs nothing; we could build square locomotives or fly to Mars" - Felix Wankel Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, but today is a gift. That is why it is called the "present." |
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#3 |
Rotary Fanatic
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 147
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If you're doing the Megasquirt tuning yourself, just keep an eye on your duty cycles, and you'll be fine. As a stop-gap measure, you can adjust the fuel pressure regulator (for ITBs, you are changing the regulator, no?) and bump the pressure up a bit. 60psi or so should see you a reasonable increase in injector flow, but settle on a flow rate before you start tuning.
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#4 |
Rotary Fanatic
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Tucson, Arizona
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I would get the TII injectors, they are 550cc and you'd be running less duty cycle with them. I wouldn't expect 200hp from a non-ported NA motor though. Even with the extra fuel.
I've done research on this before and it didn't seem worth the money. 200hp on an NA without a standalone is hard, if even possible on a non-ported motor.
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AZRX7.COM Red 1991 A-package(SOLD) Red 1990 GXL(SOLD) White 1989 GTUs(DEAD) Red 1988 Turbo II(DD) Black 1988 Turbo II(SOLD) Rebuilt and street ported motor, Garrett T04E Turbo, 3" Turbo Inlet Duct/AEM Dry Flow Filter, Your Mom's MBC, Blitz FMIC, 890cc and 1000cc injectors, Tomei FPR, Walbro, Rtek 2.1 ECU, Taurus E-Fan, Turbonetics BOV, 3" Motoria/Corksport Turbo Back Exhaust, Emissions Removed, Greddy Boost Gauge, Megan Racing Water Temp Gauge, 5one5 Triple Gauge Pod, AEM Uego, GP Sports Body Kit, Fiber Images CF Hood, S5 Seats, S5 Tails, S5 Alt, Dual Alt Pulley, D2 Coilovers, NRG Quick Release, Shook Motorsports Radiator, HID's, AN/Steel Braided Oil Cooler Lines, SUPER JDM TYTE DRIFT BUTTON www.DensetsuMotorsports.com www.AZRX7.Com www.FloodersAdventure.com |
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#5 | ||
rotors excite me
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Iowa
Posts: 372
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Quote:
![]() On a serious note though, if you haven't already gotten rid of your catalytic converter(s), do so because cats will hinder your efforts. If you can afford to you would do well to also get a high flow header, I hear Racing Beat makes good ones (and the rest of the exhaust if you want it). Sorry, I can't answer your actual question though, I'm a NA virgin (well, there was this one night stand, but I didn't take her home to mom and dad...).
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He isn't a killer. He just wins -- thoroughly. ![]() ![]() '87 TII 240+ rwhp on my DIY streetport, ~13psi on stock turbo, Racing Beat REVTII exhaust ![]() rTek 2.1 awaits a tune Quote:
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#6 |
Rotary Fanatic
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Tucson, Arizona
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An open header wouldn't be the best option. I would get a racing beat header though. And then do a 2.25" or a 2.5" single exit exhaust.
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AZRX7.COM Red 1991 A-package(SOLD) Red 1990 GXL(SOLD) White 1989 GTUs(DEAD) Red 1988 Turbo II(DD) Black 1988 Turbo II(SOLD) Rebuilt and street ported motor, Garrett T04E Turbo, 3" Turbo Inlet Duct/AEM Dry Flow Filter, Your Mom's MBC, Blitz FMIC, 890cc and 1000cc injectors, Tomei FPR, Walbro, Rtek 2.1 ECU, Taurus E-Fan, Turbonetics BOV, 3" Motoria/Corksport Turbo Back Exhaust, Emissions Removed, Greddy Boost Gauge, Megan Racing Water Temp Gauge, 5one5 Triple Gauge Pod, AEM Uego, GP Sports Body Kit, Fiber Images CF Hood, S5 Seats, S5 Tails, S5 Alt, Dual Alt Pulley, D2 Coilovers, NRG Quick Release, Shook Motorsports Radiator, HID's, AN/Steel Braided Oil Cooler Lines, SUPER JDM TYTE DRIFT BUTTON www.DensetsuMotorsports.com www.AZRX7.Com www.FloodersAdventure.com |
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#7 |
Rotary Fanatic
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Mid State Illinois
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yes i plan on a racing beat hearder. and i know not to expect 200 non ported. if you read my OP i said once it has a large SP light weight clutch flywheel and other misc. odds and ends i would like to be right around 200.
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1988 Fc Vert. Super Stock 1990 Fc Hard top: Brideported 13b, weber carb, 350z wheels w/nitrogen, or 16in BBS meshies, Msd, Racaro Racing Seats, Custom Gauge cluster, custom Intake, Relocated Battery, 3inch header back borla exhaust system, Alpine stereo system, Wire tucked, S4 shift boot&knob, custom Strut bar, And soon to come a Full black w/ gold pearl paint job, powder coated break calipers, all black interior, bride headliner/door panels. ![]() |
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#8 |
My minds tellin' me no...
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Murfreesboro, TN
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FYI- you will only need the 550's for secondaries. No reason to have a pig rich idle.
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1976 Mazda Cosmo RX-5 1976 Mazda Cosmo RX-5 2003 Toyota Tundra TRD 2015 Toyota 4Runner SR5 |
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#9 |
Respecognize!
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Δx = ħ/2Δp
Posts: 3,190
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the exhaust and the porting are going to be the two things that will really make that number happen and they have to compliment each other.
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#10 |
Rotorhead
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: "the town " Oakland
Posts: 219
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kinda like peanutbutter and jelly mmm mmm !
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Currently running: 90 GTUs converted to S5 TurboII. Track car. 90 N/A GTUs.. Running project car 89 N/A GTUs in Black #2 10/6/18 Blown coolant seal undergoing rebuild and restomod. |
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#11 |
Pirate
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Central IL
Posts: 1,323
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I dunno, I really want to see what my motor will get after the car is done and the rtek is tuned, to give a baseline for Bobby's (nop1stons) itb setup? I'm sure that whatever I get, a proper itb setup, full standalone, porting, and good tuning will make more, and I'm shooting for hopefully 150 whp? Ludwig told me not to set my sights on a number, but I think 150 is safe to hope for with an S5 motor, full exhaust, no emissions and a rtek?
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Rotaries:They are NOT that complicated! Last edited by Max777; 02-08-2009 at 04:13 PM. |
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#12 |
Slow
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 38
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You say you plan on getting a Racing Beat header but you haven't said which one. The street header is a bit short for stock ports, and will be worse if you port the exhaust. I would suggest the road race header collected shortly after the flange(will vary depending on your ports and peak RPM) or the AWR header which is built for streetported road race cars.
If the motor is in good condition you should not have a problem breaking 160whp. My 180k mile S4 motor was right around 160whp with stock ecu. |
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#13 |
Respecognize!
Join Date: Jul 2008
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a premade generic header will probably not be suited to max your max power goals.
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#14 |
Rotary Fanatic
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Tucson, Arizona
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I made around 160 wheel in my S5. It's not unattainable at all. Especially with an ITB setup.
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AZRX7.COM Red 1991 A-package(SOLD) Red 1990 GXL(SOLD) White 1989 GTUs(DEAD) Red 1988 Turbo II(DD) Black 1988 Turbo II(SOLD) Rebuilt and street ported motor, Garrett T04E Turbo, 3" Turbo Inlet Duct/AEM Dry Flow Filter, Your Mom's MBC, Blitz FMIC, 890cc and 1000cc injectors, Tomei FPR, Walbro, Rtek 2.1 ECU, Taurus E-Fan, Turbonetics BOV, 3" Motoria/Corksport Turbo Back Exhaust, Emissions Removed, Greddy Boost Gauge, Megan Racing Water Temp Gauge, 5one5 Triple Gauge Pod, AEM Uego, GP Sports Body Kit, Fiber Images CF Hood, S5 Seats, S5 Tails, S5 Alt, Dual Alt Pulley, D2 Coilovers, NRG Quick Release, Shook Motorsports Radiator, HID's, AN/Steel Braided Oil Cooler Lines, SUPER JDM TYTE DRIFT BUTTON www.DensetsuMotorsports.com www.AZRX7.Com www.FloodersAdventure.com |
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#15 |
Evil Club Mod
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 183
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ISC Full Exhaust system is the best for power, but it's the loudest system. It's usually made for track only cars but if you really want the power number, then be prepared for a lot of noise violation tickets.
200 whp will still be tough with a large SP, ITB's and a Racing Beat Exhaust. I made 161 whp using a GTUs with a K&N Drop-In Filter Replacement, Racing Beat Collected Header, Racing Beat Pre-Silencer, Racing Beat Cat-back and Rtek, with fuel and timing tuning on the dyno. Run 4 x 720 if you're going to change the injectors, no reason to pussyfoot with 550's unless you get a good deal with them. Since you have a megasquirt and you'll be tuning from scratch, you can just turn down the duty cycle at idle or anywhere else you need to lean out the fuel curve. I'd also get a pump as a precaution, because the last thing you want to do is run out of fuel. Last edited by Roen; 02-05-2009 at 10:47 AM. |
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fuel pump, itb |
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