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RX-7 2nd Gen Specific (1986-92) RX-7 1986-92 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

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Old 07-18-2008, 11:37 AM   #16
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Thanks man, just don't wanna run off new members
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Originally Posted by Wesley Carlock aka RotoriousRX7
"Rotarys come with built-in traction control, its called no torque"
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Old 07-18-2008, 12:00 PM   #17
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S4TII swap not an option?
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Originally Posted by Monkman33 View Post
But I've learned that people that don't like guns, tend to like stretched tires.

Which makes perfect sense. They are sacrificing safety either way. lol


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Old 07-18-2008, 03:23 PM   #18
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/\ You know, that is a good idea for someone who has been an owner for a while, and gotten to know what it's like to be a rotorhead, but maybe it isnt such a good idea for someone who's just jumping into it? I think that the TS will enjoy their N/A just fine, and after they get to know their car well, they can go turbo? A lot of people complain that the FC is slow, but after driving my moms huindai, any sportscar is fast! Also, my vert is faster than a friends auto 944! (althrough that's not saying much )

Personally, I am going the N/A route so I can learn how to drive and not kill myself in the process,
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Old 07-18-2008, 03:31 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TehMonkay View Post
S4 Shortblock
S5 NA rotors
Race rotor bearings, 3 window bearings in stationary gears
FD front oil pressure regulator spring, rear FD oil pressure regulator
Streetport
S5 NA Intake manifold
6 port sleeves removed
VDI wire open
RB Header to exhaust of your choice
RTEK or some other sort of tuning tool
No need for an RX-8 E-Shaft in a mostly stock build
aluminum flywheel
act street clutch

If you're staying NA i'd rather go with an atkins type B rebuild kit instead of the RA, but it's your choice, definately get the upgrade seal springs though.

Make sure you clean everything properly
Change all coolant hoses, flush your oil cooler and radiator(professionally), change your waterpump and thermostat(OEM thermostat only, no aftermarket POS, buy it from the dealer!!!! or you will kill your engine) while it's still easy to do, buy new stainless oil cooler lines if the old lines look worn.

Also look into cleaning your injectors and changing the wiring connectors for them as well.

After that look into a Racing beat suspension package, poly bushings and koni sport/yellow shocks, with camber/caster plates and a rear camer adjustment bar.

is there any difrences between the s4 and s5 short blocks good or bad
no motter what im going to use the 5 rotors for the higher comp
Race rotor bearings, 3 window bearings in stationary gears (would these come in the rebild kit normaly)
FD front oil pressure regulator spring, rear FD oil pressure regulator(will do)
Streetport(will do)
S5 NA Intake manifold (what would be the advantig over the s4)
6 port sleeves removed (um can some one explan this)
VDI wire open (can some one explane this)
RB Header to exhaust of your choice (i was looking at there rase vershin)
RTEK or some other sort of tuning tool (whats RTEK can you lenk me to info on this)
No need for an RX-8 E-Shaft in a mostly stock build (so no Rx8 E-shaft?)
aluminum flywheel
act street clutch (would like to pick up a used clutch and flywheel together for right know just a decent light weight flywheel and a up graded clutch ACT or exady dont want to spend 400 bucks thin tern around and end up swaping in a TII tranny and what not perfer git one cheep used but still in decent condshen no puck clutchs tho)



the rebild kit im looking at is a basic stock rebild kit and im opting for up graded springs i was told the up graded seal were to touf and could eat up the rotors or somthing like that hears the link to the kit im looking at
http://www.rotaryaviation.com/overhaul_kits.htm

this is not my first motor rebild altho this is my first rotary rebild

do you thank the stock injecters will be fine for this bild im hoping thay will be

as fare as suspension not a big thang right know but im looking i gess i eather want a full race coil over set up or a decent set of struts with a set of eibock pro kit and a caber caster kit
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Old 07-18-2008, 03:32 PM   #20
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well, if you plan on acting crazy then yeah, start NA to prevent death and increase power later. If you can control urges to act silly then I don't see how a stock S4TII would be less safe than an NA. It's not about being fast or slow. It's about power-to-cost ratio for me.
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Originally Posted by Monkman33 View Post
But I've learned that people that don't like guns, tend to like stretched tires.

Which makes perfect sense. They are sacrificing safety either way. lol



Last edited by Phoenix7; 07-18-2008 at 04:19 PM.
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Old 07-18-2008, 03:37 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Max777 View Post
You dont need a big brake kit, get these:

Brembo blank replacement rotors
EBC Green Stuff Pads
corksport Stainless steel brake lines
New Master cylinder
ATE super blue brake fluid (or anything else DOT 4)

That should refresh your brake system a whole lot and let you stop safely on the street. The stock brakes are more than adequate for any turbo car, much more so any N/A car.

-Max.

the reson why im wanting a loger brake kit is becouse this car isnt just going to be a car i take out and joy ride in this car is going to be seeing Auto X corses and highway 421 and the dragen probly some to i would like to have that eatra little bit of braking power if at all posoble and i perfer using factry parts from outher cars becouse if somthing fucks up you can always go to advanc and have it in the next day but if i can up grade it i will mostlikly go with brembo rotors, hawk pads, and SB brake lines and call it a day
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Old 07-18-2008, 03:38 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by 85rx-7gsl-se View Post
Thanks man, just don't wanna run off new members
haha it take a lot to run me off figer he sed somthing about my horendes spelling or somthing lo o well lol all hes doin is lol
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Old 07-18-2008, 03:40 PM   #23
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it hurts.

Go out and drive the 7 first. GO find it's limitations and THEN spend money. You're doing it backwards.
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Originally Posted by Monkman33 View Post
But I've learned that people that don't like guns, tend to like stretched tires.

Which makes perfect sense. They are sacrificing safety either way. lol


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Old 07-18-2008, 03:41 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phoenix7 View Post
S4TII swap not an option?
well right know i dont want to git in to all that wiht the car and for the condishens the car is going to see to me a decent hi-comp N/A will do what i want i hope manly looking for decent low in power i know its a rotory but i dont want to sit thater coming out of a tern wating to a turbo to spool
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Old 07-18-2008, 03:43 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phoenix7 View Post
it hurts.

Go out and drive the 7 first. GO find it's limitations and THEN spend money. You're doing it backwards.
haha 7 dont even tern over at the moment just shut off one day lol and wont tern over at all (i can tern it over by hand but starter ant doin shit + the lematachens on that motor would be very low clutch is shot and the motor had no power befor it shut off that day so lol)
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Old 07-18-2008, 03:44 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phoenix7 View Post
well, if you plan on actinc crazy then yeah, start NA to prevent death and increase power later. If you can control urges to act silly then I don't see how a stock S4TII would be less safe than an NA. It's not about being fast or slow. It's about power-to-cost ratio for me.
for right know NA is ware i want to be at
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Old 07-18-2008, 04:09 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbo vw View Post
well right know i dont want to get in to all that with the car and for the condition the car is going to see, to me, a decent high-comp N/A will do what i want, i hope. Mainly looking for decent-to-low in power. i know its a rotary but i dont want to sit there coming out of a turn waiting to a turbo to spool
I asked if it was an option and I have yet to experience the problem you're mentioning about lag. Ever. Maybe if you slap on a GT35 or something bigger.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbo vw View Post
haha 7 doesn't even turn over at the moment, just shut off one day lol and wont turn over at all (i can turn it over by hand but starter ain't doin shit + the lematachens on that motor would be very low. clutch is shot and the motor had no power before it shut off that day so lol)
Then why are you trying to waste money on big brake kits and stuff you don't need or EVEN KNOW it NEEDS?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbo vw View Post
for right know NA is where i want to be at
cool. NA is just as fun.


FIXED your posts but DAMN! I can't do it again.


WTF is lematachens??????????????
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But I've learned that people that don't like guns, tend to like stretched tires.

Which makes perfect sense. They are sacrificing safety either way. lol


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Old 07-18-2008, 04:15 PM   #28
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Some input from my worthless mind.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbo vw View Post
i know its a rotory but i dont want to sit thater coming out of a tern wating to a turbo to spool
With an N/A, you will come out of every corner waiting for a turbo to spool. Only it will never happen.

IMHO, deep groove race bearings aren't required at all. In fact, I wouldn't even change the exisiting bearings in your engine unless they are trash. For what you're doing, money could be better spent elsewhere (unless you require them due to damage)

Good luck with your build
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Old 07-18-2008, 04:22 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phoenix7 View Post
I asked if it was an option and I have yet to experience the problem you're mentioning about lag. Ever. Maybe if you slap on a GT35 or something bigger.

Then why are you trying to waste money on big brake kits and stuff you don't need or EVEN KNOW it NEEDS?

cool. NA is just as fun.


FIXED your posts but DAMN! I can't do it again.


WTF is lematachens??????????????

ok sorry about the spelling but i ment limitations


iv had enuf cars in my life turo supercharged and NA what i want is a nice quic throtle respons that you dont really git with a turbo


i posted it up that i was looking for some info right know i would like to git one for the car trust me ill over drive those brakes the first time up highway 421 but no im not in a hurry for that the motor is the main thank im just looking for info
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Old 07-18-2008, 04:27 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by classicauto View Post
Some input from my worthless mind.



With an N/A, you will come out of every corner waiting for a turbo to spool. Only it will never happen.

IMHO, deep groove race bearings aren't required at all. In fact, I wouldn't even change the exisiting bearings in your engine unless they are trash. For what you're doing, money could be better spent elsewhere (unless you require them due to damage)

Good luck with your build

well the way iv alwasd looked at motors i want it to be reliable every thang from the race motors iv bilt to a frekin geo metro i freshend up lol id perfer replace the barings now will the motors going to gether thin latter down the road thus wear out any any thang else this motor is going to be driven hard people


thanks for yours and evry ones input
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