Plain Jane OEM nothing to see here rebuild

[RETed]

Originally Posted by JustJeff

Ted, my endplay came up way off. If I'm reading my dial indicator correctly I'm looking at .005 rather than the .0016-.0028. I took the keg to the friends shop to use his air tools. I tested it there. It's still in the back of the van cause I'm waiting for someone to come home and help me lift it out.

The only things I can think of are these:

1. My Atkins dvd states that I should have 60lbs on the front bolt. I checked my FSM and it says 80-89ish.
   
2. Or maybe that I didn't put the crush washer on front bolt. I wasn't sure when to put it on. During endplay test or wait for final assembly of the front cover, oil pump, etc. I erred on the side of caution, not wanting to crush my crush washer when testing end play.

I left the flywheel tightened down and once help gets here I'll get the engine back on the stand and play with more torque and the crush washer.

Nah, I think you're overthinking it.
We just normally hand tighten the front eccentric shaft bolt and then check endplay spec.
I've only had to adjust one down or one up front he original spacer in some cases.
I just took a peek at the FSM on the available spacers, and you're still within the available spacer options - you need like a -0.003"?

IIRC my front spacer is a "K" and buying thinner spacers is an option of course, but having almost twice as much as the end spectrum of movement seems like an awful lot. I did have to replace a rotor and housing. But was hoping that using mostly the same parts would mean not having to get a different spacer.

Yeah, that's the problem with changing out housings - that's what causes the different endplay clearances.
0.003" is like paper thin - ever see the clearance gauge for that amount?
Stop beating yourself up about it...


-Ted