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RX-7 2nd Gen Specific (1986-92) RX-7 1986-92 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections. |
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#1 | |
RCC Contributor
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 505
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Here is the diagram
I have not added the idle up yet. It can only be one of two things. Either my wiring isn't following the diagram, or the fan is faulty.
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Quote:
1990 Vert/ S5-JDM 13BT (rebuilt but with issues I'm working out). Rtek N370 1.7, 550/800 injectors, FD fuel pump, RB REV TII exhaust, Tein springs and Illuminas |
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#2 |
Lifetime Rotorhead
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Elkton, MD
Posts: 874
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Maybe I'm missing something from an earlier post. Your schematic diagram shows a 2 wire fan motor (just + and - terminals), but you also said it was a 3 wire Taurus fan. Where is the 3rd wire in this diagram, and is this motor grounded or does it have a floating ground?
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#3 | ||
RCC Contributor
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 505
Rep Power: 18 ![]() |
Quote:
It's been a while since the car has been sitting and I wired in the fan and relay. I'll let you know where the fan is grounded a little later today/tonight...after I dig into the wiring.
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1990 Vert/ S5-JDM 13BT (rebuilt but with issues I'm working out). Rtek N370 1.7, 550/800 injectors, FD fuel pump, RB REV TII exhaust, Tein springs and Illuminas Last edited by JustJeff; 06-24-2012 at 10:10 AM. |
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#4 | |
Lifetime Rotorhead
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Elkton, MD
Posts: 874
Rep Power: 16 ![]() |
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If this diagram is correct, the fan body provides the ground (-) return, and there are 2 other wires - a high & low speed (+). Here it's rigged up so that whenever the switched +12V is on, and the "temp probe switch" is closed, the fan runs at low speed, and when the "AC Clutch wire" is providing +12V, that 2nd relay switches the fan to high speed. Note also they mention the high current draw when the fan starts up on high, and they recommend using a 75A relay, and the fuse to the battery is a 50-70A, and "normal" current draw on high speed is ~34A! Sounds like an alternator upgrade will be in order if you still have a stock FC alternator in there. |
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#5 |
RCC Addict
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Honolulu, Hawaii USA
Posts: 1,813
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I just want to comment on the current draw #'s...
Holy soda crackers Batman! Trying to find a 75A+ relay is encroaching on the realm of "soleniods." It's going to be difficult to find a quality relay rated that high from most common electronics parts vendors. If you do find one, I'd bet it'll be pretty expensive too? I was looking around for a 50A rated relay recently, and I ended up with an NTE one (Made in China) for about $10. 34A of current is a lot of juice for a single fan. I'm sure there's other, aftermarket fans that'll run almost the same airflow for less current - i.e. more efficient. We're talking minimum wire thickness at least 10AWG...8AWG? Of course, you can't beat the price of a used fan... But it looks at this point that the fan is faulty, so gambling with used equipment comes into play now. -Ted |
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#6 | |||
RCC Contributor
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 505
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Quote:
I'm content using either high or low. I don't really want to mess around with finding a location for a second temp switch. Is the diagram I was using ok, provided I have correct wires for ground, low+, and high+? Quote:
I don't know that the fan is faulty. I was playing around with both my fans today (mounted and spare). They both behave the same way. They both pull air on low and push air on high. That leads me to believe that the problem is not the fans...but user error instead.
__________________
Quote:
1990 Vert/ S5-JDM 13BT (rebuilt but with issues I'm working out). Rtek N370 1.7, 550/800 injectors, FD fuel pump, RB REV TII exhaust, Tein springs and Illuminas |
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#7 | ||
Lifetime Rotorhead
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Elkton, MD
Posts: 874
Rep Power: 16 ![]() |
Quote:
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