:driving: Turbo Boost Gauge readings

[nvno1]

Originally Posted by NoDOHC

I would go and get a real vacuum gauge and put it on the car. Connect it to the port that comes out of the side on the manifold right next to the split between upper and lower manifolds.

I am inclined to mistrust your stock vacuum gauge.

If the vacuum gauge is reading identical to your boost gauge, you almost have to be running on 1 rotor or it should rev up really fast.

Thanks NoDOHC, the gauage is aftermarket and i am starting to believe it might be operating on one rotor(fuel injector not pulsing). The reason i state this is because the car is hard to start(unless i play with the pedal) in addition to several turns of the key. When it does start it sometimes sort of stutters then rev good but the rpms drop then hop back up, then drop, then hops up again. This shit is getting on my nerves!!! When the car warms up at idle its does the same thing...hops from 1000 to bout 1600-1800 then back down to 1000.

What freaking me out is that the compression is 85psi front and rear, fuel pressure is good, no flooding, oil pressure good, plugs clean, oil clean, af meter reading good, once running revs up quick when i hold the pedal however the rpms will drop then come back to where it was previously.

This car is a common swap:
84 gslse, 87 TII(s4) complete pass harness(nothing was cut) still connected to the motor,drivers harness made and continu test done(ends tested), walbro pump, stock ecu, 87 TII tranny(still shopping for driveshaft).

[Rx-7fetish]

Originally Posted by nvno1

When it does start it sometimes sort of stutters then rev good but the rpms drop then hop back up, then drop, then hops up again. This shit is getting on my nerves!!! When the car warms up at idle its does the same thing...hops from 1000 to bout 1600-1800 then back down to 1000.

Sounds like tps to me, have you checked it besides poking it with your finger, mainly the test lights or volt meter?

Originally Posted by nvno1

What freaking me out is that the compression is 85psi front and rear, fuel pressure is good, no flooding, oil pressure good, plugs clean, oil clean, af meter reading good, once running revs up quick when i hold the pedal however the rpms will drop then come back to where it was previously.

Sounds like your afm is going bad or there is an intake leak after it. I had the same symptoms on both my 10th ann and an 87 gxl, the 10th ann had an intake leak between the afm and the turbo, and the afm was going bad on the gxl.

[nvno1]

Originally Posted by Rx-7fetish

Sounds like tps to me, have you checked it besides poking it with your finger, mainly the test lights or volt meter?

Sounds like your afm is going bad or there is an intake leak after it. I had the same symptoms on both my 10th ann and an 87 gxl, the 10th ann had an intake leak between the afm and the turbo, and the afm was going bad on the gxl.

Thanks for the response without the doggish dialog...i have check the TPS w/lights and a meter. when i press the TPS in all the way the motor heads to redline quick i mean fast dude.( love the TII motor bwoy)

we checked the afm per FSM and it fine according to the FSM..I plan on blocking off everything and triple checking the hoses. going to be replacing all vac lines that remain and the gasket for the Upper to Lower. can it test okay and still be bad?

[nvno1]

Originally Posted by Rx-7fetish

Sounds like tps to me, have you checked it besides poking it with your finger, mainly the test lights or volt meter?

sorry for the delay in responding...the tps has been checked with lights and multimeters..it appears to be good.

Sounds like your afm is going bad or there is an intake leak after it. I had the same symptoms on both my 10th ann and an 87 gxl, the 10th ann had an intake leak between the afm and the turbo, and the afm was going bad on the gxl.

I just got my block off plates, new waterpump housing and upper intake gaskets. when i take her apart i will change the clamps with some clamps i can tighten down...thanks for the input..if all else fails i will change the afm and the tps even though both tested fine.